Type: Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Yvon Chouinard, Mort Hempel, 1964
Page Views: 26,507 total · 121/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Mar 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

A Teton classic. Classic crack climbing with lots of variety. The technical crux is a roof pull on pitch 4, while the physical lies in the consistent flake and wide crack movement of pitch 3. There are some notable variations: at the belay for pitch 3, move left for a 5.10 finger crack. At the top of pitch six, you can move 100' right for two more 5.9 pitches, Cousin Leroy. At the top of pitch 7, climb a three-tiered roof at 10+ instead of the .7 chimney. Also very good.

Location Suggest change

See the Cathedral Buttress overview for approach. If you're planning on rapping, the last reliable fixed anchor is atop pitch six. There is some tat at the top of pitch 8 that could get you down to the pitch 6 anchors, but at this point it's best to continue to the downclimb.
For detailed downclimb info, check out one of the guides. Basically, you continue up easy 5th class slabs for another 200', trending left. This brings you to a trail and eventually a couloir downclimb.

Protection Suggest change

Take a standard Teton rack with extra wide pieces. There are some fixed pins on the route, most notably one at the tech. crux.