Sunshine Daydream
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 43.66063, -110.82348 |
| FA: | Charlie Fowler and Alison Sheets |
| Page Views: | 10,855 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Sheridan on Jul 8, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
p1-3 snaz 5.7 kinda loose
P4 from the bolted anchor step right onto the dike and make a traverse across, some down climbing and funky gear placement are required. Head to to a fixed anchor for the right variation or belay on a #3 and #4 for the left slab bolt variation. 5.8
P5 climb up and right of the belay left belay to a bolt on slab the make some tenuous moves above the bolt to get to a horizontal break then climb up a flared crack up a steep wall. Traverse left to build a belay in the darker rock dike. 5.10+ recommend way
The right var of P5 climb step cracks up and left of the belay leading to the dike then climb thru the dike. 5.10
P6 move the belay to the base of the crux crack which is tucked away in the gully up and left.
P7 climb the short steep fingers to tight hands crack to 5.7 ledgie terrain leading up and right to a wide crack climb up the first section of wide crack and build a belay. 5.11- great little crack 1 medium nut placement at the start of the pitch then good .4-1 sized cams the rest of the way
P8 climb up the wide crack to the Coffin flake then gain the coffin flake on the left side of it. Traverse above the coffin flake to the right and gain the overhanging wall above and climb the juggy left leaning hand crack to the next ledge.
P9 make a move off the anchor then climb thru blocky roofs to the final low angle OW easy climbing but slightly harder then the coffin crack Ow. If like most Tetons climbs OWs are not a common occurrence consider carrying a larger cam, then decide it’s wayyy to heavy and leave it at home. ;)
P10 romp up some loose low 5th and then if rapping the snag traverse behind the small trees on the left and you'll be right on top of the snaz top anchor it will just be down and left of you at the top of a little chimney feature. If walking off gain the higher ledge and keep traverse off.
This route gets sun a little later then most other climbs on the wall but it’s lichenie enough that it’s nice to climb in the shade so early start recommend. Few fixed anchors on this bad Larry. A 45m rope is kinda the perfect length. That and a rap line work well on the Snaz but carabiner blocking down the Snaz takes so luck and some attention.



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