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Routes in Darby Canyon

Chubby Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deep Dark Hole S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Druid Stone TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c V9 7C R
Happy, Happy, Happy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route O ("Red" Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Samsonite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stemming for Dollars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swedish Chest Thrust S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Velvet Elvis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wango Tango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Description [Suggest Change]

Darby Canyon is a large canyon draining the West slope of the Tetons. It is most famous for a popular hike to a cave. Recently, a small but enjoyable crag has been developed featuring about 20 routes. This crag is definitely not a destination, but if you are in the area (or are a local) - it is worth a visit.

The climbing is on south facing limestone, and is in the sun until very late afternoon. Upon first hiking up the view is rather underwhelming - but the climbing is suprisingly enjoyable. The routes are short, but engaging, and require good technical slab climbing skills. Most climbs are in the 5.8-5.10 range.

Technically, this crag is in Wyoming (barely), but is accessed through Idaho so I've placed it in Idaho.

I've only climbed the routes listed - and the rock quality was generally good. There are another 10 climbs further right, which look good but have received less traffic - so I suspect they haven't cleaned up as much yet.

NOTE: All star ratings are relative to other routes on this wall, so take them with a grain of salt (or piece of limestone). Grades listed are my opinion, and they differ from some of the other published material.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Between Victor and Driggs (in eastern Idaho), turn East on 300 Street. You should immediately see a sign for Darby Canyon after you turn. Follow this until it ends, and turn right and follow the dirt road for about 2 miles into the canyon. Park at a turnout on the left with a Forest Service 034 sign. If you cross the creek on the road, you've gone too far. Hike up the main trail for a few minutes, and take the first trail on the right. This second trail is very well defined, so don't turn on any others accidentally. The second trail climbs up the ridge for a bit, and then cuts way right to the crags. It is about a 10-15 minute approach.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Darby Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Happy, Happy, Happy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Happy, Happy, Happy
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
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I just moved to Driggs for the summer. I haven't climbed regularly in about 4 months now so needless to say my lead head and strength aren't what they used to be. I am working super close to Darby Canyon and saw that there was one 5.7 in the area. I was curious if any of the other routes could be accessed either from the 5.7 or from the top to set up top ropes. Can anyone help me out on this? Jun 1, 2011
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
I went and climbed most of the routes today. Pretty good area, better than it looks. Whoever posted this area on here clearly didn't refer to the "Sweet Spots" guide book, as most of the ratings are incorrect. Please refer to Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio's book for much more accurate info on these routes. Route J is not .10+, but rather .11c and route K is not .11a, but rather a pretty hard .11d. I'm not saying this out of hubris and pride, but only to inform the prospective climber of the actual difficulty of the routes. I've climbed all over the western US and they are much closer to the grades the book gives. Also, I noticed a lot of bail biners and I'm wondering if uniformed people are simply getting in over their heads. Aug 17, 2012
Dion Obermeyer
Springdale
Dion Obermeyer   Springdale
There is a boulder up Darby canyon. Its a few min hike at the end of the road and looks like an A frame house. Does anyone know what it is? Nov 9, 2014
Dallin Carey
Missoula
Dallin Carey   Missoula


Would this be it? Mar 29, 2015
Wyoming:
mountainproject.com/route/1… Apr 24, 2018

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