Routes in Darby Canyon
|Chubby Rain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Deep Dark Hole S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Happy, Happy, Happy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Route O ("Red" Route) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Samsonite S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Stemming for Dollars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Swedish Chest Thrust S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Velvet Elvis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Wango Tango S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|GPS:||43.677, -111.024 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Andy Laakmann on Aug 4, 2007|
|Admins:||WAGbag, Mike Engle|
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DescriptionDarby Canyon is a large canyon draining the West slope of the Tetons. It is most famous for a popular hike to a cave. Recently, a small but enjoyable crag has been developed featuring about 20 routes. This crag is definitely not a destination, but if you are in the area (or are a local) - it is worth a visit.
The climbing is on south facing limestone, and is in the sun until very late afternoon. Upon first hiking up the view is rather underwhelming - but the climbing is suprisingly enjoyable. The routes are short, but engaging, and require good technical slab climbing skills. Most climbs are in the 5.8-5.10 range.
Technically, this crag is in Wyoming (barely), but is accessed through Idaho so I've placed it in Idaho.
I've only climbed the routes listed - and the rock quality was generally good. There are another 10 climbs further right, which look good but have received less traffic - so I suspect they haven't cleaned up as much yet.
NOTE: All star ratings are relative to other routes on this wall, so take them with a grain of salt (or piece of limestone). Grades listed are my opinion, and they differ from some of the other published material.
Getting ThereBetween Victor and Driggs (in eastern Idaho), turn East on 300 Street. You should immediately see a sign for Darby Canyon after you turn. Follow this until it ends, and turn right and follow the dirt road for about 2 miles into the canyon. Park at a turnout on the left with a Forest Service 034 sign. If you cross the creek on the road, you've gone too far. Hike up the main trail for a few minutes, and take the first trail on the right. This second trail is very well defined, so don't turn on any others accidentally. The second trail climbs up the ridge for a bit, and then cuts way right to the crags. It is about a 10-15 minute approach.
Classic Climbing Routes at Darby Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Prime Climbing Season