Avg: 3.3 from 236 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Richard Pownall, Art Gilkey 1948|
|Page Views:||31,933 total · 169/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Stayner on Mar 9, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
P1- 120', 5.7: Move to the left shoulder of the ridge. Climb easy rock to a short dihedral with pins. Continue above and end at rap anchors.
P2- 60-70' (short), 5.5-5.7: Either continue up easy 5th-class rock straight above the rap anchor, or move right to a fun 5.7 crack. Both bring you to a large ledge.
P3- 180': This is actually pitches 3 and 4 described in the book. It's easy to link them if attention is paid to rope drag. Anyway, there is another left (west)/right (south) option on this ledge.
WEST: take the big dihedral (5.7) for a full pitch, passing the rap tree in the first 30'. It becomes 5.6 after about 80'.
SOUTH: Move right on the ledge to a large flake with a finger crack above. Climb this pretty crack and pull a 5.7 bulge to a ledge. Belay here or follow the crack to Flake Ledge at 5.6.
P4- 80': A great pitch, no matter what path is taken. Traditionally, the leftmost handcrack is taken at 5.7. The right thin hand/finger crack is wonderful as well. While it is possible to traverse back into the 5.7 crack under the roof, you can also pull it at .10. A small traverse back to the left is required if doing the roof.
P5- 80': All variations funnel into this one, a classic 5.8 dihedral/finger crack lined with plenty of awesome faceholds. An outstanding position! There are a couple of pins.
Descent: Four double-rope raps get you down.
GPS Coordinates for the base of the climb: 43.7654722, -110.77086111111112