Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Richard Pownall, Art Gilkey 1948
Page Views: 28,997 total · 164/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Mar 9, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Access Issue: Baxter’s Pinnacle and Southwest Descent Gully Closed for Nesting Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

Guide's Wall is a classic Teton non-summit rock climb. Its moderate grade, quality climbing, easy approach and easy descent all combine to make it an extremely popular route. There are many variations, as well as many nearby short climbs, that allow for a wide range of difficulties.

P1- 120', 5.7: Move to the left shoulder of the ridge. Climb easy rock to a short dihedral with pins. Continue above and end at rap anchors.

P2- 60-70' (short), 5.5-5.7: Either continue up easy 5th-class rock straight above the rap anchor, or move right to a fun 5.7 crack. Both bring you to a large ledge.

P3- 180': This is actually pitches 3 and 4 described in the book. It's easy to link them if attention is paid to rope drag. Anyway, there is another left (west)/right (south) option on this ledge.

WEST: take the big dihedral (5.7) for a full pitch, passing the rap tree in the first 30'. It becomes 5.6 after about 80'.

SOUTH: Move right on the ledge to a large flake with a finger crack above. Climb this pretty crack and pull a 5.7 bulge to a ledge. Belay here or follow the crack to Flake Ledge at 5.6.

P4- 80': A great pitch, no matter what path is taken. Traditionally, the leftmost handcrack is taken at 5.7. The right thin hand/finger crack is wonderful as well. While it is possible to traverse back into the 5.7 crack under the roof, you can also pull it at .10. A small traverse back to the left is required if doing the roof.

P5- 80': All variations funnel into this one, a classic 5.8 dihedral/finger crack lined with plenty of awesome faceholds. An outstanding position! There are a couple of pins.

Descent: Four double-rope raps get you down.

Location

Look for cairns/climber's trail up the talus just past a large pond in Cascade Creek. Guide's Wall ascends the obvious buttress/ridge to the right of the gully.
GPS Coordinates for the base of the climb: 43.7654722, -110.77086111111112

Protection

A light Teton rack. Bring extra .75-2" pieces if you're doing the handcrack/roof. Extra TCUs and small Stoppers for Blobular.

Photos