Type: Trad, Alpine, 1560 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Owen, Spalding, Peterson (Aug 11, 1898)
Page Views: 123,472 total · 764/month
Shared By: Jason Wine on Apr 10, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

From the upper saddle (13,160'), rope up and belay from a large boulder near the north face. Continue around towards the north face to reach the "belly crawl", an obvious and well named feature. It is a ledge not more than 18" wide with an overhang above. The exposure here is very exciting. Continue traversing around the ledge about 15' to the double chimney (P1), the technical crux of the climb, about 5.4.

Directly above this is the Owen Chimney (P2) which angles up to the right. The route from here goes north east to a third, very large chimney called Sargent's Chimney (P3). From the top of Sarg's, continue up and to the left. Pay careful attention to your assent path from Sarg's, you will need to find it on the down climb and it isn't obvious!

For the descent, downclimb Sarg's Chimney and then make your way to the left to a 120' rappel that drops you directly onto the upper saddle.

The route finding can be difficult, particularly on descent given the whole mountain shows signs of traffic. There are many variations to the route depending on conditions.

Buy the guidebook: "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" by Ortenburger & Jackson. It is perhaps the greatest guidebook ever written.

Location

Getting up to the upper saddle from the lower saddle is a climb all unto itself. The guidebook provides an excellent description.

Protection

A small alpine rack is fine provided you are familiar with using natural features for belays and 5.4 climbing is easy for you.

Photos