Type: Trad, Alpine, 1560 ft (473 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Owen, Spalding, Peterson (Aug 11, 1898)
Page Views: 183,510 total · 828/month
Shared By: Jason Wine on Apr 10, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

From the upper saddle (13,160'), hike and scramble 70m NNE to the common rope up point and belay under the Whittich Crack. Hand jam and lie back 1.5m on the wedged boulder of the “Belly Roll” Continue on ledge north to reach the "crawl", which is more of a straddle than crawl. It is a ledge not more than 18" wide with an overhang above. The exposure here is very exciting. Continue traversing  the ledge about 15' to the double chimney (P1)

Directly above this is the Double Chimney (P2)

Traverse right on the easy “Cat Walk” in dry conditions only or confront the crux “Owen Chimney”  when the “cat walk is wet or icy. The Owen Chimney is the crux with stemming mantels along 4 fixed pitons and a slung block.

The route from here goes (southeast) east to a third, very large chimney called Sargent's Chimney (P3). Usually, exit the chimney on left. From the top of Sarg's, continue up and to the left. Pay careful attention to your assent path from Sarg's, you'll need to find it on the down climb and it isn't obvious!

For the descent, down climb Sargents Chimney and then make your way to the left to a 120' rappel that drops you directly onto the upper saddle.

The route finding can be difficult, particularly on descent given the whole mountain shows signs of traffic. There are many variations to the route depending on conditions.

Buy the guidebook: "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" by Ortenburger & Jackson. It is perhaps the greatest guidebook ever written.

Location Suggest change

Getting up to the upper saddle from the lower saddle is a climb all unto itself. The guidebook provides an excellent description.

Protection Suggest change

A small alpine rack is fine provided you are familiar with using natural features for belays and 5.4 climbing is easy for you.