Avg: 3.3 from 413 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1560 ft (473 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Owen, Spalding, Peterson (Aug 11, 1898)|
|Page Views:||147,877 total · 809/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Wine on Apr 10, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
Directly above this is the Double Chimney (P2)
Traverse right on the easy “Cat Walk” in dry conditions only or confront the crux “Owen Chimney” when the “cat walk is wet or icy. The Owen Chimney is the crux with stemming mantels along 4 fixed pitons and a slug block.
The route from here goes (southeast) east to a third, very large chimney called Sargent's Chimney (P3). Usually, exit the chimney on left. From the top of Sarg's, continue up and to the left. Pay careful attention to your assent path from Sarg's, you'll need to find it on the down climb and it isn't obvious!
For the descent, downclimb Sarg's Chimney and then make your way to the left to a 120' rappel that drops you directly onto the upper saddle.
The route finding can be difficult, particularly on descent given the whole mountain shows signs of traffic. There are many variations to the route depending on conditions.
Buy the guidebook: "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" by Ortenburger & Jackson. It is perhaps the greatest guidebook ever written.