Type: Trad, Alpine, 1560 ft (473 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Owen, Spalding, Peterson (Aug 11, 1898)
Page Views: 142,845 total · 811/month
Shared By: Jason Wine on Apr 10, 2006 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

From the upper saddle (13,160'), rope up and belay from a large boulder near the north face. Hand jam and lie back the wedged boulder of theBelly Roll” Continue around towards the north face to reach the "crawl", an obvious and well named feature. It is a ledge not more than 18" wide with an overhang above. The exposure here is very exciting. Continue traversing around the ledge about 15' to the double chimney (P1)

Directly above this is the Double Chimney (P2)

Traverse right on the easy “Cat Walk” in dry conditions only or confront the crux “Owen Chimney”  when the “cat walk is wet or icy. The Owen Chimney is the crux with stemming mantels along 4 fixed pitons and a slug block.

The route from here goes (southeast) east to a third, very large chimney called Sargent's Chimney (P3). Usually, exit the chimney on left. From the top of Sarg's, continue up and to the left. Pay careful attention to your assent path from Sarg's, you'll need to find it on the down climb and it isn't obvious!

For the descent, downclimb Sarg's Chimney and then make your way to the left to a 120' rappel that drops you directly onto the upper saddle.

The route finding can be difficult, particularly on descent given the whole mountain shows signs of traffic. There are many variations to the route depending on conditions.

Buy the guidebook: "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" by Ortenburger & Jackson. It is perhaps the greatest guidebook ever written.

Location

Getting up to the upper saddle from the lower saddle is a climb all unto itself. The guidebook provides an excellent description.

Protection

A small alpine rack is fine provided you are familiar with using natural features for belays and 5.4 climbing is easy for you.

Photos