Avg: 3.3 from 263 votes
Routes in Grand Teton
|Bean's Shining Wall of Storms T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Beyer East Face I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Black Ice Couloir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3-4|
|Collins-Coombs T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Collins-Hume T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Crystal Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0|
|Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|East Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Emerson Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) WI2-3 Mod. Snow|
|Gold Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Grand Traverse, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jackson-Rickert Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X|
|Lower Exum Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|North Face Highlight Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|North Face Standard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|North Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|North Side Lowlight Tour (path of least resistance) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Owen Spalding T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Perception Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Pownall-Gilkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Psudo Emerson Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-|
|Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Upper Exum Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|West Face of the Exum Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wittich Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1560 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Owen, Spalding, Peterson (Aug 11, 1898)|
|Page Views:||102,195 total, 718/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Wine on Apr 10, 2006|
DescriptionFrom the upper saddle (13,160'), rope up and belay from a large boulder near the north face. Continue around towards the north face to reach the "belly crawl", an obvious and well named feature. It is a ledge not more than 18" wide with an overhang above. The exposure here is very exciting. Continue traversing around the ledge about 15' to the double chimney (P1), the technical crux of the climb, about 5.4.
Directly above this is the Owen Chimney (P2) which angles up to the right. The route from here goes north east to a third, very large chimney called Sargent's Chimney (P3). From the top of Sarg's, continue up and to the left. Pay careful attention to your assent path from Sarg's, you will need to find it on the down climb and it isn't obvious!
For the descent, downclimb Sarg's Chimney and then make your way to the left to a 120' rappel that drops you directly onto the upper saddle.
The route finding can be difficult, particularly on descent given the whole mountain shows signs of traffic. There are many variations to the route depending on conditions.
Buy the guidebook: "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" by Ortenburger & Jackson. It is perhaps the greatest guidebook ever written.