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Routes in Cascade Canyon

Bat Attack Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guide's Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Highway to Heaven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Perches Necessary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Symmetry Crag 4 - Trinity Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Complete South Ridge Barry Corbet & Robert French on 7/27/58
Page Views: 12,344 total, 98/month
Shared By: Paul Huebner on Aug 3, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Baxter’s Pinnacle and Southwest Descent Gully Closed for Nesting Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

Good rock with a sunny southern exposure with a great view above Jenny lake.

The described below should bring you to a huge block for the 1st belay:

P1 Go up and left along a ramp, then go back right past a tree and belay on a ledge where the climb steepens. If you want, the steep wall directly above the 1st belay goes 5.10 and has a couple of bolts. It's a variation called Seizure Disorder.

P2 (5.6) Climb straight up the crest, which angles a little to the left as you approach a large ledge for 2nd belay. A steep crack to the right is the 2nd pitch (5.8) of the South Ridge climb. It has a couple of fixed pins low down.

P3 (5.6) Continue straight up on the south face and top out before setting up belay.

P4 Traverse (more easy) across and slightly down to a large flat stance below the base of the more intimidating tower and set up your next belay from there.

P5 (5.9) Over to the right, just to the left of the corner and above, there is a fixed pin. The crux of the climb is a one move affair to get off of the flat stance and onto the tower above the pin. From there you climb just a bit to the right of the pin and up a big, detached flake. Then a steep (5.7) lieback crack goes up and left along the very steep corner. There are 3 fixed pins in the crack. Finally double cracks lead to the summit.

Although not as hard as the complete South Ridge, a 5.6 pitch vs. 5.8 crack on the 2nd pitch, I really enjoyed staying out on the South Face. The lieback portion of the last pitch had the most enjoyable moves on the entire climb for me.

The rappel is about 75 feet into the notch to the north behind the pinnacle. You then downclimb the steep couloir along the west side of the pinnacle. Watch for loose rock.

Location

Baxter's is a little difficult to find. I was with former JHMG, Jim Olson in 1987. It's low on the south side of Symmetry Spire's east ridge, but it's hard to see from the east shore of Jenny Lake. It's about a 1/2 hr. approach if you take the boat across Jenny lake. From the trail jct. just west of the Jenny Lake Boat Landing, take the "horse trail" up Cascade Canyon. After about 1/2 mile, you can see the pinnacle on the slope to the north. Continue up trail to talus from the pinnacle and find footpath that leads to the base of the south ridge of the pinnacle.

Protection

Standard rack. As noted there are a few fixed pins along the way. Sam Lightner and Forest Dramis replaced rap anchor with new bolts on 6/25/07.
Luke Lindeman
Lancaster, PA
  5.9
Luke Lindeman   Lancaster, PA
  5.9
As of August 26th, 2017 there were 3 separate rappel stations in the gully behind Baxter's. This made it WAY faster to get out of that death gully. The party ahead of us trundled a pretty massive boulder down the gully, so I'm super thankful we were behind them. A single 60 meter rope is adequate for each rap station and it'll get you down far enough so that the hike out isn't as ridiculous. Still, be careful because you can easily knock loose rocks down on your rope/party. Sep 6, 2017
losbill
 
losbill  
 
The crux of this climb is the descent. Jan 31, 2017
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Just added a couple of pictures from the old and historic Ortenburger 1965 guide book showing several other routes on Baxter's Pinnacle. The history is good to know. Mar 23, 2016
Will Copeland
Driggs
 
Will Copeland   Driggs
 
Found some loose rock on pitches 2 and 4. Knock before you yard!

There is a NPS sign that says "Horse Trail" at the turn off...impossible to miss.

A short and easy approach from String Lake. Oct 25, 2015
Prametheus
Jackson, WY
Prametheus   Jackson, WY
Climbed this today (9/8/14) and found some gear right next to the rap anchors on the summit. PM me if it is yours!

I felt some loose rock on route on the 5th pitch and could have probably ripped out a good size chunk if I tried. The loose rock was towards the end of the layback section and it was a golden, block shaped piece of rock. Heads up! Sep 9, 2014
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.9
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.9
Baxter's Pinnacle and No Perches Necessary are closed for nesting peregrine falcons. Likely closed until mid August May 28, 2013
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
Fun climb, the wild Exposure on last pitch, be careful on the Descent gully, there was a lot of loose rock, bowling alley, when we did it, Jan 27, 2011
Chasem
 
Chasem  
 
A fun outing. Worth it for the views alone. The last pitch is the money pitch. The crux move and the layback at the top are protected by a few mind-easing pins. I highly recommend this climb if you've got an extra afternoon in the park. Dec 3, 2009
Aaron Lucas
  5.8+
Aaron Lucas  
  5.8+
I was told a secret about the crux. Do not go directly up, traverse far right and find the hidden jug then move up. This made the climb seem much easier than the last time I did it. Also Sept 1 was the last day for the 7am boat ride. Sep 5, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.9
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.9
The trail becomes more and more obvious every year. Look for a cleared, maintained path that branches off the horse trail just before it levels out and makes a bend to the south to rejoin the main Cascade Canyon trail. Aug 5, 2007