Type: Trad, Alpine, 4000 ft, Grade II
FA: H. Morris and I. Christensen, 1927
Page Views: 11,835 total · 82/month
Shared By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

88 Opinions

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This is the standard route on the Middle Teton. From the Meadows, head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. Going up this fork is more time consuming than the north fork due to a lack of a (decent) trail. Climb all the way to the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons (do not branch off right early).

The couloir should now be obvious on the left (west) side of the ridge leading to the summit. If snow-filled, ice axe and crampons will be needed. It seems, however, that this couloir melts out relatively rapidly. I remember it becomes quite narrow towards the top, and is a bowling alley if anyone is above you. Helmets recommended! The couloir tops out very near the summit.


Descend the same route.


Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
An excellent scramble. Did this in early September - take an ice axe and wear a helmet in the couloir. Crampons were not used, but missed while crossing rock hard snowfields at 6am. How is the summit view? Get up there and see for yourself - you will not be disappointed. Sep 6, 2011
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
  3rd PG13
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
  3rd PG13
Did this route in the summer, careful of loose falling rock, kinda like a bowling alley in there, definitely wear a helmet Jul 31, 2017