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Routes in Middle Teton

Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chouinard Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Mod. Snow
Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Mod. Snow
Dike route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow
Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow
Middle Finger, Northwall, Inge's T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1
Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2
South Chimney Finish of Southeast (Buckingham) Ridge of Middle Teton T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 4000 ft, Grade II
FA: H. Morris and I. Christensen, 1927
Page Views: 10,228 total · 73/month
Shared By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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This is the standard route on the Middle Teton. From the Meadows, head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. Going up this fork is more time consuming than the north fork due to a lack of a (decent) trail. Climb all the way to the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons (do not branch off right early).

The couloir should now be obvious on the left (west) side of the ridge leading to the summit. If snow-filled, ice axe and crampons will be needed. It seems, however, that this couloir melts out relatively rapidly. I remember it becomes quite narrow towards the top, and is a bowling alley if anyone is above you. Helmets recommended! The couloir tops out very near the summit.


Descend the same route.


Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
An excellent scramble. Did this in early September - take an ice axe and wear a helmet in the couloir. Crampons were not used, but missed while crossing rock hard snowfields at 6am. How is the summit view? Get up there and see for yourself - you will not be disappointed. Sep 6, 2011
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
  3rd PG13
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
  3rd PG13
Did this route in the summer, careful of loose falling rock, kinda like a bowling alley in there, definitely wear a helmet Jul 31, 2017

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