Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Teton

Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chouinard Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Dike Pinnacle North Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dike route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ellingwood Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Steep Snow
Middle Finger, Northwall, Inge's T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c WI1 A1
Middle Teton Glacier Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2 Mod. Snow
North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Northwest Ice Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3
Southwest Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 4000 ft, Grade II
FA: H. Morris and I. Christensen, 1927
Page Views: 8,600 total, 66/month
Shared By: George Bell on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route

83 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is the standard route on the Middle Teton. From the Meadows, head up the south fork of Garnet Canyon. Going up this fork is more time consuming than the north fork due to a lack of a (decent) trail. Climb all the way to the saddle between the Middle and South Tetons (do not branch off right early).

The couloir should now be obvious on the left (west) side of the ridge leading to the summit. If snow-filled, ice axe and crampons will be needed. It seems, however, that this couloir melts out relatively rapidly. I remember it becomes quite narrow towards the top, and is a bowling alley if anyone is above you. Helmets recommended! The couloir tops out very near the summit.


Descend the same route.


tkessel Kessel
  3rd PG13
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  3rd PG13
Did this route in the summer, careful of loose falling rock, kinda like a bowling alley in there, definitely wear a helmet Jul 31, 2017
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
An excellent scramble. Did this in early September - take an ice axe and wear a helmet in the couloir. Crampons were not used, but missed while crossing rock hard snowfields at 6am. How is the summit view? Get up there and see for yourself - you will not be disappointed. Sep 6, 2011