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Right Dihedrals aka Tolle Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.3 from 71
votes
Routes in (a) West Sector
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Big Five Nine Open Book T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Box Car Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+ |
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Chocolate Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Exit Tolle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Generation Why S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hargis-Dyer Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Lefty-Leany T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Naranja Aplastada S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Right Dihedrals aka Tolle Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sip On This T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Triple Roofs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Weight Weighed - ( 2nd pitch variation to Ganger-Munger ) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Unknown, 1970s |
| Page Views: | 12,019 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Jul 13, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
An enjoyable and non-threatening jaunt up the western portion of Rock Springs Buttress. The climbing is relatively straightforward, belays fixed, and the protection excellent - making this a fine introductory route on Rock Springs Buttress. As usual for this crag, there is still some loose rock around so use caution.
There are 5 bolted chain anchors on the route, so it is possible to do this climb in 5 pitches if desired, but it is comfortably done in 3 pitches if you skip the 2nd and 4th set of anchors (60m rope). The plethora of anchors makes rapping this route a breeze.
The pitches are described as I did them (skipping the 2nd and 4th set of anchors)
P1 - 50 feet, 5.6 - climb up broken rock and the occasional crack to fixed anchors on a nice ledge. These anchors are difficult to see from below, but they are directly below a huge, attractive corner system.
P2 - 125 feet, 5.7 - step right and into a long corner system. Continue past the first set of anchors until the crack disappears. Step right and into a hand crack that takes you to the next set of anchors on a sloping ledge.
P3 - 125 feet - 5.8 - step right and into a long corner system (detect a theme!). A cruxy area is encounter at a wide section. Pass the next set of chains and continue through two cruxy laybacking sections up and right to the finishing chains. You can do Blimpie as a harder variation to this final pitch. If you have a 70m rope, you can also rap down and TR Blimpie if you're not feeling like leading it.
Either rappel the route or scramble up and left back to the approach road.
NOTE: a 70m rope is required to rappel the route using the belays as described above. If you have any doubt, just use all the anchors!
There are 5 bolted chain anchors on the route, so it is possible to do this climb in 5 pitches if desired, but it is comfortably done in 3 pitches if you skip the 2nd and 4th set of anchors (60m rope). The plethora of anchors makes rapping this route a breeze.
The pitches are described as I did them (skipping the 2nd and 4th set of anchors)
P1 - 50 feet, 5.6 - climb up broken rock and the occasional crack to fixed anchors on a nice ledge. These anchors are difficult to see from below, but they are directly below a huge, attractive corner system.
P2 - 125 feet, 5.7 - step right and into a long corner system. Continue past the first set of anchors until the crack disappears. Step right and into a hand crack that takes you to the next set of anchors on a sloping ledge.
P3 - 125 feet - 5.8 - step right and into a long corner system (detect a theme!). A cruxy area is encounter at a wide section. Pass the next set of chains and continue through two cruxy laybacking sections up and right to the finishing chains. You can do Blimpie as a harder variation to this final pitch. If you have a 70m rope, you can also rap down and TR Blimpie if you're not feeling like leading it.
Either rappel the route or scramble up and left back to the approach road.
NOTE: a 70m rope is required to rappel the route using the belays as described above. If you have any doubt, just use all the anchors!
Location
When the approach trail hits the buttress below Monkey Flower, continue right passing Box Car Arete (a very obvious bolted arete). This climb starts up broken rock and aims for a ledge below a small roof. There are fixed anchors on this ledge, but they are difficult to see from below. Directly above the roof is a big, attractive corner system to can be used to help identify the route. If you cross under a big gully you've gone too far!
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