Type: Sport, Alpine, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Hans Johnstone and Greg Collins (Summer, 2008)
Page Views: 5,016 total · 38/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Awesome new addition up the main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. After the first easy pitch, the climbing is characterized by steep (vertical to slightly overhanging) climbing on excellent stone with thoughtful cruxes. The cruxes are brief, but the steep nature keeps you working.

  • P1 (5.8) The first bolt is about 30' up on a headwall left of an obvious corner. Follow the line of bolts up (it goes way right at one point in time) to the fixed anchor (30m)
  • P2 (10a/b) Awesome stemming up the dihedral leads to a step right onto an arete. Continue up to the fixed anchors (25m)
  • P3 (10b) Cool moves up a right facing corner, lead to an undercling and then a steep and challenging headwall. Hanging Belay. Short Pitch (15-20m)
  • P4 (10b/c) More awesome, steep edging up the headwall (25m)

Location

The climb begins about 100' climber's right of the Exum Arete, down the loose trail at the base. An old piton is about 5' off the ground (great for hanging packs) and is right below the first bolt (30' up).

Protection

Fully bolted. Anchors rigged for rappel, but they are a little funky. One bolt has a chain and the other bolt has a carabiner.

Rappel Descent

We rapped the route, but getting to the belay on top of P1 is difficult, as the rap puts you 10' out in space. (Tie knots!) Next time I'll clip the bolts during the rap as directionals, and then have the second person clean them.

Photos