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Routes in Rock Springs Buttress

"Bacon Strip" T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Air Raid T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Albatross Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Baby Cham Brings The Heat ! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Man on Campus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Big Wally T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blimpie T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bolt it G T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Box Car Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Box Car Boulder V6-7 7A+
Chant Down the Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clowns and Jokers T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Coombs Crossover S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crucify the Dread S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Direct Start to Exum Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Do It For Doug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exum Arete T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giver' for Givens T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Go, For Gary ! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Going Ghandi S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gothic Serpent T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Central S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gray Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobo Rat Race S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ice Climb, The T WI5-6 M7
Ire' Tower T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Knockin' on the Sky T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live to Ski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Flower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mule Skinner S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munger Crack and Friends Pitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Logo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Old Mountaineer's Root T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Orange Member S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Other Ice Climb, The T WI4 M5
Piton Country T M5+
Pork Slab S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ptarmigan Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rainbow Country S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rasberry Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Red Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M7
Red, Gold and Green S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Lounge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sole Super Power S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Super Trad T M6+ R
This climb from the Tram (is recommended for climbers with expert abilities only.) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trash Culture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Triple Roofs T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waste Products S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Whistle Pigs S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wish You Were Here S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Y - Not Wall (Amada's Route) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zion Stormtrooper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
d S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Hans Johnstone and Greg Collins (Summer, 2008)
Page Views: 4,335 total · 37/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route

29 Opinions

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Awesome new addition up the main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. After the first easy pitch, the climbing is characterized by steep (vertical to slightly overhanging) climbing on excellent stone with thoughtful cruxes. The cruxes are brief, but the steep nature keeps you working.

  • P1 (5.8) The first bolt is about 30' up on a headwall left of an obvious corner. Follow the line of bolts up (it goes way right at one point in time) to the fixed anchor (30m)
  • P2 (10a/b) Awesome stemming up the dihedral leads to a step right onto an arete. Continue up to the fixed anchors (25m)
  • P3 (10b) Cool moves up a right facing corner, lead to an undercling and then a steep and challenging headwall. Hanging Belay. Short Pitch (15-20m)
  • P4 (10b/c) More awesome, steep edging up the headwall (25m)


The climb begins about 100' climber's right of the Exum Arete, down the loose trail at the base. An old piton is about 5' off the ground (great for hanging packs) and is right below the first bolt (30' up).


Fully bolted. Anchors rigged for rappel, but they are a little funky. One bolt has a chain and the other bolt has a carabiner.

Rappel Descent

We rapped the route, but getting to the belay on top of P1 is difficult, as the rap puts you 10' out in space. (Tie knots!) Next time I'll clip the bolts during the rap as directionals, and then have the second person clean them.


Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Climbed it again. The grades I posted above still seem about right... If you bring alot of draws (maybe 20?) you can link the last two pitches and avoid a hanging belay. It'll be about a 40-50m long, engaging, and pumpy pitch. Jul 3, 2009
Jackson, WY
Toby   Jackson, WY
Sounds like the top of pitch one can be confusing for some folks. Don't get suckered over to Grand Central on the right. After the piton towards the top of P1, head up and left to a bolt and a small bulge. Belay at a small ledge with bolts and chain/ biners. From the belay you will see a bolt not too far to the right, heading into a gray dihedral, that is pitch two. You can see the pitch two dihedral from the ground, scope it out before heading up. Awesome route!! Aug 20, 2009
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
The "piton about 5 feet off the ground" seems to be AWOL at this point. Hung packs using a finger size cam instead. Sep 2, 2011
Jackson, WY
BTLove   Jackson, WY
Really fun climb.

Descent: With a 70m rope you can just reach the anchors at the top of pitch 2 from the top of pitch 4. And as of yesterday (5/10/2012) there is a fixed rope from the top of pitch 2 to the ground, so you can avoid the tricky rappel to the top of pitch 1. Very quick and easy descent right now. May 10, 2012
Charlie Jonas
Jackson, Wyoming
Charlie Jonas   Jackson, Wyoming
Be aware there is a bolted variation at the start of the third pitch. This variation goes straight up from the anchor at the top of the second pitch, while 'do it for doug' route continues on the face to the right of the ledge.

I tried to climb this route for the first time a couple weeks ago and ended up on this variation pitch by accident. Anybody have any additional info about this variation? I turned around after the third bolt after it became apparent I was no longer on a 10c route (first 3 bolts felt like a solid 11). Jul 3, 2013
Gee Double  
3rd pitch var; "Wish You Were Here" 5.11b ** (K.Miller memorial route)

3rd pitch left var: "Bolt it G" AKA Bolt it for Doug: 5.11d * trad; med stoppers, finger size cams.

Do it For Doug: Please leave anchor hardware in place. Caution; many, small, galvanized bolts... Jun 14, 2014
Psyched to finally get on the route, and found it interesting and engaged as supported by its reputation. Well protected, sustained climbing at the grade. And yes, linking 3&4 makes for a long and thoughtful pitch. A couple notes; 1) It seems like the route sees a fair bit of traffic, and that being the case perhaps it would be worth improving the anchors a bit. I figure 1/2 a dozen large (3/8"?) quick-links, some short pieces of chain and perhaps a few large welded rings could help standardize the anchors with a central master rappel/belay point. Case in point, one of the raps is now missing a biner as it was confused for part of our belay anchor and mistakenly taken by my partner... 2) I noticed a set of rings to the climbers right of the anchor for the top of P.1 - would that help facilitate the rappel down from the top of P.2? and 3) it looks like a potential 5th pitch could go straight up from the last belay to meet the top out of Chuck's Road to Thailand at the top of the buttress - thoughts anyone? Jul 15, 2014
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
Great route. Fantastic exposure, movement, rock quality. Definitely think at least 10c for the upper pitches; holds/sequence not obvious and very sustained. I wouldn't send anyone less than a comfortable 5.11 leader up this for their first go at it.

Rapping to the anchors above the first pitch is sketchy as mentioned. Required a swing and clipping a draw through a bolt to pull on to finally get me over to the anchor. A block or prussik of some kind is recommended. Aug 20, 2014

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