Avg: 3.7 from 28 votes
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Hans Johnstone and Greg Collins (Summer, 2008)|
|Page Views:||4,558 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Laakmann on Aug 23, 2008|
Awesome new addition up the main portion of Rock Springs Buttress. After the first easy pitch, the climbing is characterized by steep (vertical to slightly overhanging) climbing on excellent stone with thoughtful cruxes. The cruxes are brief, but the steep nature keeps you working.
- P1 (5.8) The first bolt is about 30' up on a headwall left of an obvious corner. Follow the line of bolts up (it goes way right at one point in time) to the fixed anchor (30m)
- P2 (10a/b) Awesome stemming up the dihedral leads to a step right onto an arete. Continue up to the fixed anchors (25m)
- P3 (10b) Cool moves up a right facing corner, lead to an undercling and then a steep and challenging headwall. Hanging Belay. Short Pitch (15-20m)
- P4 (10b/c) More awesome, steep edging up the headwall (25m)
The climb begins about 100' climber's right of the Exum Arete, down the loose trail at the base. An old piton is about 5' off the ground (great for hanging packs) and is right below the first bolt (30' up).
Fully bolted. Anchors rigged for rappel, but they are a little funky. One bolt has a chain and the other bolt has a carabiner.