Elevation: 354 ft
GPS: 45.4486, -66.308
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 577,323 total · 3,747/month
Shared By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

Description

New Brunswick is considered the drive-by province. Despite having been labelled that insipid characteristic, it offers lots of opportunities for the visiting climber. All of the climbing areas are located in the South of the province.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities (500 routes) wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs.

Aside from these crags in the Welsford Valley, New Brunswick offers a lot more climbing, mainly sport climbing.

Tired of climbing on granite?, Cedar Point in the City of Saint John consists of an old limestone quarry. Surprisingly, the rock is quality and the location is nice and quaint.

Saint Andrews in the southwest offers unique sport climbing on basalt with magnificent views of the St-Croix River. There are about 40 routes in the region.

Kingston Crag in the Kennebecasis valley is a nice sport crag that contains a variety of grades on very unique rock.

Utopia Crag has a big overhanging granite cliff that has seen much development in the last few years including some of the hardest routes in the province including a 5.14.

Just up the road from Utopia Crag is McQuirks Mountain, a beautiful mostly trad cliff offering almost 60 routes. Most of the routes are two pitches in length on generally high quality Devonian granite.

There is also really good Bouldering in Munson Lake near Lepreau. The huge granite blocks scattered through clearcuts are well featured and range frome V0 to V hard. The Granite is also very high quality.

This list is not complete and should give the reader an idea of the surprising amount of rock we have in Southern NB.

Getting There

New Brunswick is South of Gaspésie (Qc), West of PEI and Nova Scotia and east of Maine.

All of the rock climbing in NB is located in the south of the province. On the other hand, the ice can be found everywhere in the province.

Here is a Google Map list of parking lots, trailheads and cliffs for rock and ice climbing areas. The list is not exhaustive and may not be up to date but it should help. The guidebook is still recommended. 

https://www.google.ca/maps/@45.597576,-66.4852867,9z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m3!11m2!2sX6YdobpH_b9eQT0S6vwIxRmpaYexLA!3e3

More Beta

Here is a Goole Map List of parking lots, trailheads, and cliffs for rock and ice climbing. This list is not exhaustive and may not be up to date, but it should help. The guidebook is still recommended.

https://www.google.ca/maps/@45.597576,-66.4852867,9z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m3!11m2!2sX6YdobpH_b9eQT0S6vwIxRmpaYexLA!3e3

1,020 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Brunswick

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Incognito
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Magic X
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Neutral Tribe
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Astroboy Direct
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
A Warm and Sultry Evening
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Sweet Marie
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 7
Weeping Whisker
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Sticky Fingers
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Fifty Mission Cap
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
I'm an Amanita
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Turkeys and Turtles
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Ziggy Piggy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Bone Machine
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
RA
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Fabricated for your pleasure
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Incognito Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Pyramid Wall Area
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Magic X McQuirks Mountain > X Wall
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Neutral Tribe McQuirks Mountain > Main Wall
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Astroboy Direct Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Warm and Sultry Evening Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Minkey Wall
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sweet Marie Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Pooh Corner
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Weeping Whisker Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Pooh Corner
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Sticky Fingers Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fifty Mission Cap McQuirks Mountain > X Wall
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
I'm an Amanita Red Rock Mountain > Creek wall
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Turkeys and Turtles Red Rock Mountain > Main Wall (Center Face)
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Ziggy Piggy Welsford > … > Dawn Walls > Upper Dawn Wall
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bone Machine Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
RA Welsford > Sunnyside > Sunnyside Wall
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Fabricated for your pleasure Green Head Cove > Main Cliff
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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