Elevation: 354 ft
GPS: 45.449, -66.308 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 342,758 total · 2,563/month
Shared By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

Description

New Brunswick is considered the drive-by province. Despite having been labelled that insipid characteristic, it offers lots of opportunities for the visiting climber. All of the climbing areas are located in the South of the province.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities (500 routes) wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs.

Aside from these crags in the Welsford Valley, New Brunswick offers a lot more climbing, mainly sport climbing.

Tired of climbing on granite?, Cedar Point in the City of Saint John consists of an old limestone quarry. Surprisingly, the rock is quality and the location is nice and quaint.

Saint Andrews in the southwest offers unique sport climbing on basalt with magnificent views of the St-Croix River. There are about 40 routes in the region.

Kingston Crag in the Kennebecasis valley is a nice sport crag that contains a variety of grades on very unique rock.

Utopia Crag has a big overhanging granite cliff that has seen much development in the last few years including some of the hardest routes in the province including a 5.14.

Just up the road from Utopia Crag is McQuirks Mountain, a beautiful mostly trad cliff offering almost 60 routes. Most of the routes are two pitches in length on generally high quality Devonian granite.

There is also really good Bouldering in Munson Lake near Lepreau. The huge granite blocks scattered through clearcuts are well featured and range frome V0 to V hard. The Granite is also very high quality.

This list is not complete and should give the reader an idea of the surprising amount of rock we have in Southern NB.

Getting There

New Brunswick is South of Gasp├ęsie (Qc), West of PEI and Nova Scotia and east of Maine.

All of the rock climbing in NB is located in the south of the province. On the other hand, the ice can be found everywhere in the province.

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Brunswick

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Magic X
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Neutral Tribe
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Astroboy Direct
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
A Warm and Sultry Evening
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Sweet Marie
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 3
Weeping Whisker
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Sticky Fingers
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Fifty Mission Cap
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Salad Fingers
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 4
Joint Venture
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
Turkeys and Turtles
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Ziggy Piggy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Bone Machine
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Black Knight
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Forsaken
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Magic X McQuirks Mountain > X Wall
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Neutral Tribe McQuirks Mountain > Main Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Astroboy Direct Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Warm and Sultry Evening Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Minkey Wall
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sweet Marie Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Pooh Corner
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Weeping Whisker Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Pooh Corner
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Sticky Fingers Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fifty Mission Cap McQuirks Mountain > X Wall
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Salad Fingers McQuirks Mountain > X Wall
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Joint Venture Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Attic
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Turkeys and Turtles Red Rock Mountain > Main Wall (Center Face)
 12
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Ziggy Piggy Welsford > … > Dawn Walls > Upper Dawn Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bone Machine Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Black Knight Welsford > Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Forsaken Greenlaw
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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