New Brunswick Climbing

New Brunswick is considered the drive-by province. Despite having been labelled that insipid characteristic, it offers lots of opportunities for the visiting climber. All of the climbing areas are located in the South of the province.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities (500 routes) wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs.

Aside from these crags in the Welsford Valley, New Brunswick offers a lot more climbing, mainly sport climbing.

Tired of climbing on granite?, Cedar Point in the City of Saint John consists of an old limestone quarry. Surprisingly, the rock is quality and the location is nice and quaint.

Saint Andrews in the southwest offers unique sport climbing on basalt with magnificent views of the St-Croix River. There are about 40 routes in the region.

Kingston Crag in the Kennebecasis valley is a nice sport crag that contains a variety of grades on very unique rock.

Utopia Crag has a big overhanging granite cliff that has seen much development in the last few years including some of the hardest routes in the province including a 5.14.

Just up the road from Utopia Crag is McQuirks Mountain, a beautiful mostly trad cliff offering almost 60 routes. Most of the routes are two pitches in length on generally high quality Devonian granite.

There is also really good Bouldering in Munson Lake near Lepreau. The huge granite blocks scattered through clearcuts are well featured and range frome V0 to V hard. The Granite is also very high quality.

This list is not complete and should give the reader an idea of the surprising amount of rock we have in Southern NB.