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Areas in New Brunswick

Bald Hill 31 / 24 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 55
Cape Spencer 0 / 0 / 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Cedar Point - Trifecta Wall 0 / 10 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Cedar point 5 / 19 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Evandale Quarry 0 / 0 / 0 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
Glen Falls 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Gondola Point 1 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Green Head Cove 1 / 12 / 2 / 4 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 19
Haggertys cove 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Kingston Crag 3 / 19 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Little Salmon River Ice 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 20 / 20
McQuirks Mountain 65 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 66
Minister's Face 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Munson Lake 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Walton Glen Canyon Ice 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34 / 0 / 4 / 24 / 34
Welsford 68 / 31 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 94

Description

New Brunswick is considered the drive-by province. Despite having been labelled that insipid characteristic, it offers lots of opportunities for the visiting climber. All of the climbing areas are located in the South of the province.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities (500 routes) wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs.

Aside from these crags in the Welsford Valley, New Brunswick offers a lot more climbing, mainly sport climbing.

Tired of climbing on granite?, Cedar Point in the City of Saint John consists of an old limestone quarry. Surprisingly, the rock is quality and the location is nice and quaint.

Saint Andrews in the southwest offers unique sport climbing on basalt with magnificent views of the St-Croix River. There are about 40 routes in the region.

Kingston Crag in the Kennebecasis valley is a nice small sport crag that contains a variety of grades on very special rock.

Utopia area has a huge granite overhang currently undevelopped that will probably boast NB's first 5.14's...

There is also really good Bouldering in Munson Lake near Lepreau. The huge granite blocks scattered through clearcuts are well featured and range frome V0 to V hard. The Granite is also very high quality.

This list is not complete and should give the reader an idea of the surprising amount of rock we have in Southern NB.

Getting There

New Brunswick is South of Gasp├ęsie (Qc), West of PEI and Nova Scotia and east of Maine.

All of the rock climbing in NB is located in the south of the province. On the other hand, the ice can be found everywhere in the province.

422 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Brunswick

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 3
Tom's Route
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
Follow the White Rabbit
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
I'm Too Drunk For This
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Yelcho
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 7
Stairway to Heaven
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Magic X
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Stuck in the Flow
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Neutral Tribe
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Shackleton's Voyage
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Hanger Four
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Fifty Mission Cap
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Courage
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Combat Math
Trad
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 3
Cornifluge
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Welcome To Welsford
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tom's Route Welsford > Eagle Rock > Great Roof Area
 3
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Follow the White Rabbit McQuirks Mtn
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
I'm Too Drunk For This McQuirks Mtn
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Yelcho Glen Falls
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Stairway to Heaven Welsford > Sunnyside > Atomic Wall
 7
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Magic X McQuirks Mtn
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Stuck in the Flow Glen Falls
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Neutral Tribe McQuirks Mtn
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Shackleton's Voyage Glen Falls
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hanger Four Glen Falls
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Fifty Mission Cap McQuirks Mtn
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Courage Glen Falls
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Combat Math McQuirks Mtn
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Cornifluge Welsford > Mount Douglas-E… > Main Face
 3
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
Welcome To Welsford Welsford > Eagle Rock > Hex Wall
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in New Brunswick »

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