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Elevation: 267 ft 81 m
GPS: 45.5035, -65.9729
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Shared By: Ian Lingley on Jul 7, 2011
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes
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Description Suggest change

This cliff looks over the Bates Lake located on the Kingston peninsula. This is a very convenient crag having only a 5 min approach, and the majority of the climbs can be accessed from above for easy top rope setup.

The rock quality is pretty good for being rhyolite and basalt there are some loose rocks/pebbles wearing a helmet is strongly recommended.

The cliff gets direct sunlight from early morning to mid afternoon. Located on the Lake road just 5 min from the gondola point ferry.

Getting There Suggest change

From highway # 1 take the Gondola Point exit (between Hampton and Saint John). After crossing the Gondola Point ferry turn right onto highway 845. Stay on this road for about 3 kilometers and then turn left onto the Lake Road. About a kilometer up the Lake Road you should see a cliff on your left through the trees. Park in the driveway on the left after house #45 (hard to see, drive slow).

OR – Same directions as Hampton Marsh, but instead of turning down Norton Shore Road, stay on the Pickwocket….to the village of Kingston – (about 10/15 minutes) – once you pass the Irving & Church, take the next left (Lake Road)….about 1 km up, you’ll see an overgrown driveway with a boulder in the middle. Park here…
GPS coordinates are 45 29.516’ 065 58.935’.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: Kingston Crag Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Kingston Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 7
● Medusa
Sport
Main wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
● Kareoke
Sport
Jester Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
● Err To the Throne
Sport
Jester Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
● Nothing But Air
Sport
Jester Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 8
● Cracktacular
Trad
Queen Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
● Jester
Sport
Jester Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
● Cleopatra
Sport
Main wall
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 11
● Chicken Little
Sport
Jester Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
● Dressed For Success
Sport
Queen Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
● Solidara
Sport
Queen Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Medusa Main wall
 7
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● Kareoke Jester Wall
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Err To the Throne Jester Wall
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Nothing But Air Jester Wall
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Cracktacular Queen Wall
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
● Jester Jester Wall
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Cleopatra Main wall
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Chicken Little Jester Wall
 11
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
● Dressed For Success Queen Wall
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Solidara Queen Wall
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Kingston Crag »

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