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Routes in Jester Wall

The French Connection S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Another Drumstick S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aphrodite S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Awestruck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Little S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Err To the Throne S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jester S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jughead T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kareoke S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monster's Garden S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nothing But Air S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: FA: G. Hughes, S. Couturier 2009.09.13 (FFA: D.Caron, C. Goodman)
Page Views: 365 total, 5/month
Shared By: Ian Lingley on Jul 7, 2011
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley

You & This Route


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Description

Obvious line directly below tuning fork Spruce tree. An easy start to the first bolt, then a tricky crux with a shallow mono pocket to crank on will bring you to easier climbing between 2nd and 3rd bolts then another thin crux section up the vertical face to finish. Arête near the top can be used to make the route 10c.

Location

The amazing line in the center of jester wall.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 raprings

Photos

C. Williams
the Climber Cave
  5.10c
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
  5.10c
Good route! Fun little one move wonder through the mono to jugs. May 10, 2017
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.10c
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.10c
A little history on the route as I have the FFA. The original way I did it had the crux at the start using the very crappy shallow mono. I used the arête at the top and graded it 5.11 a or b. I went on it onsight and just climbed it. After that many people found better beta at the crux to the right where you skip the mono beta altogether. This is where the downgrade comes from. I think the route is now a 5.10c. Not using the arête at the top would be ridiculous as it's right there. Eliminates are made for the gym. It's always the path of least resistance that prevails outside. Jun 7, 2012