Elevation: 55 ft
GPS: 45.44, -66.307 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,439 total · 387/month
Shared By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 15, 2010 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes
Access Issue: This cliff is on CFB Gagetown property and all users must check in with Range Control prior to climbing. Seasonal raptor closure from April 1 to August 1. The walls from Burrough's to Pooh Corner are off limits during the closure. Details

Description

This area holds the largest concentration of routes in the Welsford area, or all of New Brunswick for that matter. Trad, mixed gear and occasional sport routes. Quality rock abounds. Routes range in length from 30 to 200 feet. It is possible to link together 3 or 4 pitches to provide somewhat of a multi pitch experience but the majority of the climbing is single pitch. There are a high number of cracks but few pure crack climbs. The gear is generally good but be on the lookout for suspect rock as there are a few locations where the rock is less than bomber. This is generally a very quiet, out of the way area to climb. It is not uncommon for climbers to show up here on a weekday and have the entire cliff to themselves. The current guidebook, authored by Dominic Caron, is available at local outdoor retailers. Please respect local access regulations. This cliff is on CFB Gagetown property and is strictly regulated. Members of Ascent New Brunswick are permitted to call in for access. Everyone else must go to Camp Petersville (12 k north on route 7) to obtain a day use pass from Range Control. Please practise Leave No Trace principles. There is a spring directly below Joe's Garage. Be certain not to deposit human waste anywhere within 60 meters of the spring. In the event of an emergency call 911 and Range Control 506-422-2131.

Getting There

2km South of the Rt101/Rt7 intersection Cochrane Lane turns off east, crosses the Nerepis Rivere and bends south. You'll notice a big yellow sign marking the trailhead, and just after this is a large gravel pit on the northeast side of the road, with some bricks and structures inside it. Park on the southwest side of the road across from the gravel pit at a small pulloff. You'll find the parking lot just before the road turns into a dirt road - do not continue further down the road as this is private property. Cross the farmer's field near the gravel pit and follow the trail along the back of the field. Dogs MUST be on leashes... the farmer has horses, sheep and dogs roaming the field.

212 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Rockstar
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Astroboy Direct
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Ragged Edge
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
A Warm and Sultry Evening
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Waterfall Layback
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
The Pink Panther
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Sticky Fingers
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 3
Joint Venture
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 5
Telefunken U-47
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 3
Gumby Roof
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Ziggy Piggy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
8 Four 7
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Bone Machine
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Black Knight
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Mon Premier French Kiss
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rockstar Amphitheatre
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Astroboy Direct Joe's Garage
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ragged Edge Alley
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Warm and Sultry Evening Minkey Wall
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Waterfall Layback Waterfall Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Pink Panther Minkey Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sticky Fingers Joe's Garage
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Joint Venture Attic
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Telefunken U-47 Joe's Garage
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Gumby Roof Joe's Garage
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Ziggy Piggy Dawn Walls > Upper Dawn Wall
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
8 Four 7 Attic
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Bone Machine Joe's Garage
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Black Knight Joe's Garage
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Mon Premier French Kiss Joe's Garage
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Cochrane Lane Cliffs »

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