Elevation: 75 ft
GPS: 45.456, -66.342 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 94,267 total · 755/month
Shared By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

Description

Considered the highest concentration of quality climbing in the Atlantic Provinces. Trad, sport, ice, aid and top-roping. Quality rock, excellent pro-placement, great views from up high.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs. If you're not an AscentNB member, you'll have to drive to camp Petersville 9km North of Welsford to get a day pass. If you're an AscentNB member, please call in.

Here is a summary of the 5 crags:

Cochrane Lane
By far the biggest crag in New Brunswick. With its 350 routes on beautiful pink Granite, it is by far the most popular area in New Brunswick. The climbing here is mostly trad but there is a fair bit of mix routes and sport routes, especially in the 5.11 range.

Sunnyside
A newly developped cliff, Sunnyside offers climbers a chance to relax and clip some nice shiny bolts. There are about 30 climbs and grades range from 5.7 to 5.12c. You can find jugs, crimps, slopes and a few cracks on these short to medium size diabase routes.

Mount Douglas
Was rediscovered in 2010 by a local climber and since then a bunch of work has been put into it. The''Dalles'' are not to be missed here as they offer high quality moderate challenges on well protected slabs. Also, Idoprofen is one of the few hand jam cracks in NB and is not to be missed by the 5.11 climber.

Bald Peak It offers about 15 toprope routes on high quality granite and gives climbers one of the best view in the Nerepis valley.

Eagle Rock
Rediscovered in 2012 by local climbers who have been putting new traditional routes up. This crag is in Welsford but isn't affected by the Gagetown agreement. Climb at will.

Getting There

Along Route 7 between Oromocto and Saint John, NB. 45 minutes from Fredericton, 25 minutes from Saint John. See parking and approach details for the specific crags.

321 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Welsford

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Rockstar
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Astroboy Direct
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Ragged Edge
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
A Warm and Sultry Evening
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Waterfall Layback
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
The Pink Panther
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Sticky Fingers
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 3
Joint Venture
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 5
Telefunken U-47
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 3
Gumby Roof
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Ziggy Piggy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Bone Machine
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Dihelio
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Black Knight
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Welcome To Welsford
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rockstar Cochrane Lane C… > Amphitheatre
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Astroboy Direct Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ragged Edge Cochrane Lane C… > Alley
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Warm and Sultry Evening Cochrane Lane C… > Minkey Wall
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Waterfall Layback Cochrane Lane C… > Waterfall Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Pink Panther Cochrane Lane C… > Minkey Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sticky Fingers Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Joint Venture Cochrane Lane C… > Attic
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Telefunken U-47 Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Gumby Roof Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Ziggy Piggy Cochrane Lane C… > Dawn Walls > Upper Dawn Wall
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bone Machine Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dihelio Sunnyside > Sunnyside Wall
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Black Knight Cochrane Lane C… > Joe's Garage
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Welcome To Welsford Eagle Rock > Hex Wall
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
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