Welsford Rock Climbing
|GPS:||45.456, -66.342 Google Map · Climbing Map|
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|Shared By:||Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010|
|Admins:||Dom, Ian Lingley|
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DescriptionConsidered the highest concentration of quality climbing in the Atlantic Provinces. Trad, sport, ice, aid and top-roping. Quality rock, excellent pro-placement, great views from up high.
The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs. If you're not a UNB rock & Ice member, you'll have to drive to camp Petersville 9km North of Welsford to get a day pass. If you're a UNB rock & Ice member, please call in.
Here is a summary of the 5 crags:
By far the biggest crag in New Brunswick. With its 350 routes on beautiful pink Granite, it is by far the most popular area in New Brunswick. The climbing here is mostly trad but there is a fair bit of mix routes and sport routes, especially in the 5.11 range.
A newly developped cliff, Sunnyside offers climbers a chance to relax and clip some nice shiny bolts. There are about 30 climbs and grades range from 5.7 to 5.12c. You can find jugs, crimps, slopes and a few cracks on these short to medium size diabase routes.
Was rediscovered in 2010 by a local climber and since then a bunch of work has been put into it. The''Dalles'' are not to be missed here as they offer high quality moderate challenges on well protected slabs. Also, Idoprofen is one of the few hand jam cracks in NB and is not to be missed by the 5.11 climber.
Bald Peak It offers about 15 toprope routes on high quality granite and gives climbers one of the best view in the Nerepis valley.
Rediscovered in 2012 by local climbers who have been putting new traditional routes up. This crag is in Welsford but isn't affected by the Gagetown agreement. Climb at will.
Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control Details
Some of the crags in this area are on Canadian Military land. Members of UNB Rock and Ice Club need to call Range Control before going. Non-members must present themselves in person to Range Control and procure a pass. 506 422-2000 ext 3121
Classic Climbing Routes at Welsford
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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