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Welsford

International > N America > Canada > New Brunswick
Access Issue: Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control Details

Description

Considered the highest concentration of quality climbing in the Atlantic Provinces. Trad, sport, ice, aid and top-roping. Quality rock, excellent pro-placement, great views from up high.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs. If you're not an AscentNB member, you'll have to drive to camp Petersville 9km North of Welsford to get a day pass. If you're an AscentNB member, please call in.

Here is a summary of the 5 crags:

Cochrane Lane
By far the biggest crag in New Brunswick. With its 350 routes on beautiful pink Granite, it is by far the most popular area in New Brunswick. The climbing here is mostly trad but there is a fair bit of mix routes and sport routes, especially in the 5.11 range.

Sunnyside
A newly developped cliff, Sunnyside offers climbers a chance to relax and clip some nice shiny bolts. There are about 30 climbs and grades range from 5.7 to 5.12c. You can find jugs, crimps, slopes and a few cracks on these short to medium size diabase routes.

Mount Douglas
Was rediscovered in 2010 by a local climber and since then a bunch of work has been put into it. The''Dalles'' are not to be missed here as they offer high quality moderate challenges on well protected slabs. Also, Idoprofen is one of the few hand jam cracks in NB and is not to be missed by the 5.11 climber.

Bald Peak It offers about 15 toprope routes on high quality granite and gives climbers one of the best view in the Nerepis valley.

Eagle Rock
Rediscovered in 2012 by local climbers who have been putting new traditional routes up. This crag is in Welsford but isn't affected by the Gagetown agreement. Climb at will.

Getting There

Along Route 7 between Oromocto and Saint John, NB. 45 minutes from Fredericton, 25 minutes from Saint John. See parking and approach details for the specific crags.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Reindeerland
[Hide Photo] Reindeerland
Joe's Garage at Cochrane Lane
[Hide Photo] Joe's Garage at Cochrane Lane
welsford
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ian Lingley
Grand Bay-Westfield
[Hide Comment] Is there any way to remove the CFB warning on all of Welsford and only apply it to the cliffs/areas that are affected? Eagle rock is private property and I'm also planing on adding bald peak as well and it's not on the base either? Aug 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] Ian, the warning could be removed from the overall Welsford area and added to the individual crags it applies to. Aug 1, 2012
Ian Lingley
Grand Bay-Westfield
[Hide Comment] That would be great, It applies to the Cochrane Lane Cliffs, sunny side, Mount Douglas-East Face and the bouldering. Aug 2, 2012
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
[Hide Comment] Hey Ian, Bald Peak is on CFB Gagetown. The parking isn't but the cliff is. Anyways, I'll try to fix all this so that Eagle Rock doesn't get the Access message. Aug 10, 2012
Wade Hall
San Angelo, TX
[Hide Comment] Looking for a sport climbing partner this week!

Hello, I'll be in Saint John 8/20-24 and was hoping to get some climbing in. Sounds like Sunnyside would be the place for me. Would anyone be interested in meeting up? Aug 17, 2015
[Hide Comment] There should be an update to the access notes for Welsford Crags reflecting the changes in the agreement which now exists with Ascent New Brunswick and Base Gagetown. Can one of the admins for this page please update it? UNB Rock and Ice is no longer on the agreement. Sep 1, 2015