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Mount Douglas-East Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Mount Douglas-East Face

Les Dalles de St-Anselme 4 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Main Face 10 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Sunset Ledge 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

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Elevation:	589 ft	180 m
GPS:	45.4703, -66.3471 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	12,800 total · 80/month
Shared By:	Dom Caron on Dec 16, 2011
Admins:	Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control Details

Mount Douglas is on Canadian Military land. Members of UNB Rock and Ice Club need to call Range Control before going. Non-members must present themselves in person to Range Control and procure a pass at Camp Petersville

Description

The East Face of Mount Douglas is the obvious crag located directly in front of the Welsford Golf course. It was rediscovered in 2010 and since a trail has been put in and over 25 routes have been established. The climbing here is on granite but despite the rock type, most routes here have bolts around the crux. One exception is the 3 stars all trad hand crack called Idoprofen. It is probably the best route at Mount Douglas.

Les Dalles de St-Anselme is an extension to the east face of Mount Douglas and offers high quality slab climbing on pristine stone. The grades are moderate here and the bolts are close so this would be a good place to start leading routes.

Getting There

In front of the golf course is the newly built overpath for the highway bypass. Driver under it and park at the pullout near the woods Look for a trail on the left end of the pullout and follow the pink blazes all the way to the crag (15-20 mins.) The dalles the St-Anselme are located 5 minutes further on the climber's right when you get to the main face.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Douglas-East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 8 ● Le jardinier de la dalle Trad, Sport Les Dalles de St-Anselme
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 6 ● Mangeur de bas Sport Les Dalles de St-Anselme
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 8 ● 2 Tours Sport Les Dalles de St-Anselme
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 4 ● Serpents Volants Trad Main Face
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 8 ● Baille-y de la friction Sport Les Dalles de St-Anselme
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 5 ● Vapour Trails Sport Main Face
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 7 ● Idoprofen Trad Main Face
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a 4 ● Dog Fight Trad Main Face
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 6 ● Cornifluge Trad Main Face