Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 389 ft 119 m
GPS: 45.43084, -66.31572
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 33,817 total · 217/month
Shared By: Ian Lingley on Feb 20, 2012
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

Description Suggest change

Eagle rock was one of the first areas in New Brunswick to be climbed. It was first explored by climbers in the mid 70’s with a few lines in the 5.1 to 5.5 grade that may be a little stiff by today’s standards. The climbing continued in this area for a few years but when Cochrane lane became more popular in the late 70 and early 80’s, the early climber focused on the larger wall across the valley.
Some of the first climbers in NB were Tom Butz, Colin Bell and G. Lacroix. These early rock climbers opened free climbs like Tom’'s Route and the Wire Brush Special at Eagle rock but also put up some of the classics in Welsford like Gollum’s Cave, Cheekbone corner, Waterfall Layback and Pink Panther. These routes have been re-graded in the last few years and still remain as test pieces in New Brunswick.
Eagle rock has had little development science the 70’s. There was another aid line done by Steve Adamson that ascends the left wall, there a few pins left from the first and only ascent.  Steve also added a few small but stout free/trad climbs on the left wall.
The most current development was a few of the old aid lines from the time were finally freed by Bowles and Cruickshank around 2004.

This Area is located on private land is not part of base Gagetown's restriction. You do not have to contact CFB to climb here but please be respectful and don't trash the place.

Getting There Suggest change

Located on the right side of highway 7 coming from Fredericton, it’s between the Irving in Welsford and the first exit in to Grand Bay-Westfield. You can pull off at the picnic area walk on the high way towards the Irving, there is a small cairn off of the left side of the road where the trail starts. The trail is currently marked with orange flagging tape and will lead to the great roof.

53 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Eagle Rock Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 6
Thin to win
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 6
Tom's Route
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 5
Rapid Transit
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Steve and Joes Most Excellent Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
Crack System Investigation
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Royal Flash
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Access Granite
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 4
Mammas Don't Let Your Babies Gro…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Horizontal Heaven
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Oggie Oggie
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Finger Crack Arête
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Welcome To Welsford
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Thin to win Hex Wall
 6
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Tom's Route Great Roof Area
 6
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Rapid Transit Hex Wall
 5
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Steve and Joes Most Excelle… Hex Wall
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Crack System Investigation Hex Wall
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Royal Flash Hex Wall
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Access Granite Hex Wall
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Mammas Don't Let Your Babie… Left Side > From The Ground
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
Horizontal Heaven Hex Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Oggie Oggie Great Roof Area
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Finger Crack Arête Hex Wall
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Welcome To Welsford Hex Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Eagle Rock »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading