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Routes in The Great Roof Area

Diurnal pegs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Great Roof, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hatful of Hollow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oggie Oggie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Reach Around, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silver Sword, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spectator Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tom's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
True Great Roof, The A2+ PG13
Wire Brush Special T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Fa: Colin Bell, G.Lacroix FFA: John Bowles, Brent Cruickshank
Page Views: 55 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ian Lingley on Aug 8, 2012
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley

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Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control Details

Description

Diurnal pegs start just right of the great roof and follows cracks to piton protected crux, after the crux the climbing get a little dirty and finishes on a large fur tree. This route R rating is because of the run out to the first pin about 12-15’ up.

Diurnal pegs was developed in 1977 by Colin Bell and G.Lacroix and was original an aid line that was given the aid grade of A1. Diurnal Pegs was the first climb in New Brunswick to have a bolt placed on it, the bolt was placed about 5 feet from the ground but was removed around 2010. In 2004 local hard men John Bowles and Brent Cruickshank freed the original line with a starting variation and gave the route a grade of 5.11 R.

Location

Right of the great roof

Protection

Bring a rack, There are 2 older pins placed on the climb that may need replacing.

Photos

Ian Lingley
Grand Bay-Westfield
 
Ian Lingley   Grand Bay-Westfield  
 
There's a pin about 10 feet up. If it had a nice landing probably wouldn't be a problem, but with the landing its a little intimidating. The optional photo shows where the pin is and there no obvious crack before it. Aug 20, 2012
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
I looked a this route a few times and it looks like there is gear at the start?? I guess I'll have to climb it to find out. Aug 17, 2012
Ian Lingley
Grand Bay-Westfield
 
Ian Lingley   Grand Bay-Westfield  
 
Yeah that's the old 1/4" bolt. It was in a weird spot looked like they were just practicing drilling. Aug 14, 2012
Chris Norfolk
Fredericton, New Brunswick
Chris Norfolk   Fredericton, New Brunswick
In 2010 Erick and I broke a bolt on this route very low to the ground. I'm not sure if that's the same bolt you mentioned. Weighted it... stepped onto it... and sheared the head clean off. It wasn't replaced since it was very low to the ground and other placements were available. Aug 13, 2012