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Routes in The Great Roof Area

Diurnal pegs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Great Roof, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hatful of Hollow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Knuckle Sandwich T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oggie Oggie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Reach Around, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silver Sword, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spectator Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tom's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
True Great Roof, The A2+ PG13
Wire Brush Special T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Butz 1976
Page Views: 140 total, 10/month
Shared By: gph on Oct 19, 2016
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley

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Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control Details

Description

This is a stunningly marvelous rock climb. Everything about it is perfect; the movement, the rock, the gear, variety, etc., etc. Absolute must do. History: This route was put up in 1976 by Tom Butz and the original grade was 5.1. It has been adjusted to reflect current grading practices. This is also the oldest recorded rock climb in New Brunswick.

Location

Located about in the middle of the slab between the Great Roof and Yin/Yang corner. Look for three milk crate sized blocks stacked on top of each other. Climb up the blocks then move up to a large elephant head shaped feature. Continue up the elephant to a tree ledge. Step right then up to gain a small arete. Follow the left side of the arete until you reach a fist crack that narrows down to hands near the top of the route.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Tree anchor.

Photos

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