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> Welsford
> Eagle Rock
> Great Roof Area
Tom's Route
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in The Great Roof Area
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Diurnal pegs T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Great Roof, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Hatful of Hollow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Knuckle Sandwich T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Oggie Oggie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Reach Around, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Silver Sword, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spectator Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tom's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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True Great Roof, The A2+ PG13 |
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Wire Brush Special T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Tom Butz 1976 |
| Page Views: | 332 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Hughes on Oct 19, 2016 |
| Admins: | Dom, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control
Details
Some of the crags in this area are on Canadian Military land. Members of Ascent NB need to call Range Control before going. Non-members must present themselves in person to Range Control and procure a pass. 506 422-2000 ext 3121
Description
This is a stunningly marvelous rock climb. Everything about it is perfect; the movement, the rock, the gear, variety, etc., etc. Absolute must do. History: This route was put up in 1976 by Tom Butz and the original grade was 5.1. It has been adjusted to reflect current grading practices. This is also the oldest recorded rock climb in New Brunswick.
Location
Located about in the middle of the slab between the Great Roof and Yin/Yang corner. Look for three milk crate sized blocks stacked on top of each other. Climb up the blocks then move up to a large elephant head shaped feature. Continue up the elephant to a tree ledge. Step right then up to gain a small arete. Follow the left side of the arete until you reach a fist crack that narrows down to hands near the top of the route.
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