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Elevation: 347 ft
GPS: 45.18685, -66.85277
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 51,234 total · 444/month
Shared By: Greg Hughes on Oct 22, 2014
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

Description Suggest change

McQuirks Mountain is an east facing granite cliff that has excellent rock quality and easy access from a secondary highway. The cliff offers gear protected crack climbing with a 220 foot tall center face and slightly shorter flanks left and right. Most routes are two pitches with bolted belays. The rock is generally very high quality Devonian granite. The rock is very similar to what you will find at Cathedral Ledge in North Conway. The grades range from 5.5 to 5.12. Gear is generally good throughout the cliff. A single rack of nuts and cams to 3" should work well on everything here but it is nice to have doubles and a 4" piece. A 60 meter rope will work fine but a 70 is handy for descending some routes. The shortest climb is about 35 feet while the longest is a 3 pitch link up covering about 270 feet of vertical ground. The best time to climb here is in early spring and from August through October. During these times the bugs are either at a minimum or non existent. There is great camping just below the base of the cliff with water sources nearby. There are numerous rappel stations from the top and also an easy walk off north and south.
You will find most amenities close by in the town of St. George - gas, groceries, beer at the Shell gas station convenience store, restaurants, hardware, etc.

Getting There Suggest change

This cliff is located about 9 kilometers north of the town of St. George. From points east of St. George turn off highway 1 at exit 56 or exit 52 if you are coming from points west. If you took exit 56 head south toward the Tim Horton's/Ultramar then turn right onto Main Street after the Subway Restaurant. Continue west toward the town of St. George. Just before you enter town turn right onto Riverview Avenue which is also highway 770. If you took exit 52 head south to Brunswick street then east toward town and Main St. After going through the town turn left onto Riverview Avenue. From the intersection of Main and Riverview Drive (hwy 770) travel north for 8 km. The cliff will come into view at about kilometer 7. About 100 meters after house # 643 you will see a gravel pullout on your left. Turn off the highway and park at this pullout. There is room for several cars here with some strategic parking. You will find the approach trail to the right marked with orange flagging tape. Approach time: 10 minutes.

78 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at McQuirks Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 6
Trinity
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Dance Platform
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 8
Mr. Anderson
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Magic X
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
The Nose
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Neutral Tribe
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
The Crack Machine
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 6
Blackfly
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Fake Right - Go Left
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Fifty Mission Cap
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Salad Fingers
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Gunsmoke and The Truth
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Combat Math
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Crack Machine Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 5
Scars and Stripes
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trinity Matrix
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Dance Platform X Wall
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Mr. Anderson Matrix
 8
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Magic X X Wall
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Nose Main Wall
 5
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Neutral Tribe Main Wall
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Crack Machine Main Wall
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Blackfly Main Wall
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Fake Right - Go Left X Wall
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Fifty Mission Cap X Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Salad Fingers X Wall
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Gunsmoke and The Truth Main Wall
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Combat Math Main Wall
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Crack Machine Direct Main Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Scars and Stripes Main Wall
 5
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in McQuirks Mountain »

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