Elevation: 347 ft
GPS: 45.187, -66.853 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 35,004 total · 426/month
Shared By: Greg Hughes on Oct 22, 2014
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

Description

McQuirks Mountain is an east facing granite cliff that has excellent rock quality and easy access from a secondary highway. The cliff offers gear protected crack climbing with a 220 foot tall center face and slightly shorter flanks left and right. Most routes are two pitches with bolted belays. The rock is generally very high quality Devonian granite. The rock is very similar to what you will find at Cathedral Ledge in North Conway. The grades range from 5.5 to 5.12. Gear is generally good throughout the cliff. A single rack of nuts and cams to 3" should work well on everything here but it is nice to have doubles and a 4" piece. A 60 meter rope will work fine but a 70 is handy for descending some routes. The shortest climb is about 35 feet while the longest is a 3 pitch link up covering about 270 feet of vertical ground. The best time to climb here is in early spring and from August through October. During these times the bugs are either at a minimum or non existent. There is great camping just below the base of the cliff with water sources nearby. There are numerous rappel stations from the top and also an easy walk off north and south.
You will find most amenities close by in the town of St. George - gas, groceries, beer at the Shell gas station convenience store, restaurants, hardware, etc.

Getting There

This cliff is located about 9 kilometers north of the town of St. George. From points east of St. George turn off highway 1 at exit 56 or exit 52 if you are coming from points west. If you took exit 56 head south toward the Tim Horton's/Ultramar then turn right onto Main Street after the Subway Restaurant. Continue west toward the town of St. George. Just before you enter town turn right onto Riverview Avenue which is also highway 770. If you took exit 52 head south to Brunswick street then east toward town and Main St. After going through the town turn left onto Riverview Avenue. From the intersection of Main and Riverview Drive (hwy 770) travel north for 8 km. The cliff will come into view at about kilometer 7. About 100 meters after house # 643 you will see a gravel pullout on your left. Turn off the highway and park at this pullout. There is room for several cars here with some strategic parking. You will find the approach trail to the right marked with orange flagging tape. Approach time: 10 minutes.

73 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at McQuirks Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 5
Trinity
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
I'm Too Drunk For This
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Follow the White Rabbit
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Four Eyed Moe
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Up Yours
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 5
Mr. Anderson
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Magic X
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Neutral Tribe
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Zen
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
The Crack Machine
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Gunsmoke and The Truth
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Fifty Mission Cap
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Salad Fingers
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Combat Math
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Scars and Stripes
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Trinity Matrix
 5
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
I'm Too Drunk For This Moe Wall
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Follow the White Rabbit Matrix
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Four Eyed Moe Moe Wall
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Up Yours Green Zone
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Mr. Anderson Matrix
 5
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Magic X X Wall
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Neutral Tribe Main Wall
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Zen Main Wall
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
The Crack Machine Main Wall
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Gunsmoke and The Truth Main Wall
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fifty Mission Cap X Wall
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Salad Fingers X Wall
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Combat Math Main Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Scars and Stripes Main Wall
 3
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in McQuirks Mountain »

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