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Routes in The Main Cliff

Caving Misbeehaving S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cool Breeze, Couple of Knees S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Donkey following Carrots S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Don’t Be Jenga S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Fabricated for your pleasure S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Good Looking Bat Hooking A3- PG13
Sweetness is in the hand of the beeholder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Winds of Change A3- R
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Eric Samis
Page Views: 185 total · 4/month
Shared By: samis1 on Jun 26, 2014
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley

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Description

This route is basically 'Don't be Jenga Direct'. Same start, but move left around the roof instead of right. A relatively short (but excellent) boulder problem will join you back onto Don't be Jenga just in time for the crux at the top. In my opinion, it's the best sport route in Saint John. Very fun.
I am not good at grading, I gave it a 5.12- because its harder then Don't be Jenga (5.11+) but I don't know by how much. please climb it and let me know :)

Location

Straight up the big obvious (slightly overhanging) face that begs to be climbed. Stay left of the giant block/flake

Protection

7 bolts and chains on a 2 bolt anchor

Photos

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