Utopia Rock Climbing

Utopia probably has the most amount of overhanging rock of any crag in NB. As such it lends itself to steep sport climbing. The climbs here range from 5.8 to 5.14 with most routes being 5.11 or 5.12 with a good selection of 5.13's. A good crag for those looking for a concentration of hard sport climbs. The approach is easy and short which is a nice bonus. Both walls get morning sun and afternoon shade. The crag is located on private land so be mindful and respectful.

There are however a few caveats. Bug season is particularly bad in the area so be prepared if you plan to climb here May to mid July. The rock quality is questionable in spots, in particular the wall right of the Sunnyvale overhangs tends to be crumbly (helmets recommended). Some climbs tend to seep and are more suitable for dry weather. The style of many of the climbs on the Utopia Wall overhang is also something to get used to. Many routes on this wall climb flaring grooves which sometimes require intricate and unusual beta to solve (which isn't necessarily a bad thing, just a different kind of puzzle to solve :)