All Locations > International > N America > Canada > New Brunswick > Utopia

Utopia Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Utopia Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cat in the Hat S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Crypt Keeper S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	End of the Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Roast Pastry Dick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Roast Pastry Dick Erect S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sculpture S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Send Badge S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	St. George's Hole S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Temperance S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Thing 1 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Thing 2 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Way of the Road S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	377 ft	115 m
GPS:	45.16787, -66.85251 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,376 total · 64/month
Shared By:	Francois Cote on Oct 31, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Description

Utopia wall is home to a very impressive and imposing overhang. Several routes on this overhang climb up flaring grooves and require intricate and unique beta to solve. Most of these routes are accessed by climbing part way up the easy bolted slab (Cat in the Hat) then breaking off onto the overhang. Utopia wall also has a couple slab routes left of the overhang and a tall vertical wall right of the overhang. The rock on the right wall tends to be crumbly so beware.

Utopia wall gets morning sun and afternoon shade

Getting There

From the parking area, walk to the end of the dirt road and continue no the flagged trail. Don't take the trail uphill to Dystopia but instead continue straight on the trail until it leads you to the left end of Sunnyvale wall (approach time 5 minutes)