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Elevation: 741 ft 226 m
GPS: 45.47227, -66.50856
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,016 total · 226/month
Shared By: Ian Lingley on Feb 7, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

Description Suggest change

This cliff has some of the best granite in New Brunswick. The upper cliff is really solid rock with extraordinary cracks that you will wish were longer. This area is rarely visited and with time the rough exterior of the rock will become a little less painful.  Bring Tape. The lower cliff offers the best and highest concentration of hard sport climbs in NB. The routes on the lower cliff are a mix between horizontals, slopers and fantastic one of a kind features that make every route a classic.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Welsford Irving follow the 101 for roughly 10 KM or so. A little while after Queen's Ridge Rd turn left onto an unnamed road, usually marked with flagging tape around a pole. This road will quickly turn to dirt. Follow the road for another 5 minutes or so, passing a compost area on your right. At the end of the compost area turn right and drive past a small 'lake', then turn left onto a rougher road. After another 5-10 min of driving and you will come to the top of a hill. The pullout and trailhead are on your right. The trail should be marked with flagging tape and also a sign. Follow this trail for an easy 10 min to the top of the cliff. It is easily possible to drive a car to the trailhead, although the road may be quite muddy after a rain.

57 Total Climbs

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Location: Bear Mountain (AKA Bald Hill) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Bear Mountain (AKA Bald Hill)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Neopolitan
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 13
Bebop
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Face The Pockets
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Toad In The Hole
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 11
Breadbox Crack
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Deception Dike
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Rock Steady
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Rocky Road
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
The Twin Cracks
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Regeneration
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
McPeck Arete
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 7
Aim High
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Groovin
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Smaug
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Shooting Monkeys in a Barrel
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Neopolitan Lower Tier
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bebop Lower Tier
 13
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Face The Pockets Lower Tier
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Toad In The Hole Lower Tier
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Breadbox Crack Second Tier
 11
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Deception Dike Lower Tier
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Rock Steady Lower Tier
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Rocky Road Lower Tier
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Twin Cracks Second Tier
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Regeneration Lower Tier
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
McPeck Arete Lower Tier
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Aim High Second Tier
 7
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Groovin Lower Tier
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Smaug Lower Tier
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Shooting Monkeys in a Barrel Lower Tier
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bear Mountain (AKA Bald Hill) »

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