Description

So many good things about this sport crag so let's get started - it faces south, dries fast after a rain. the rock (granodiorite and gneiss) is well featured and solid with excellent friction, short approach (about a 5 minute walk), nice setting for being in a city (great view of the Irving Oil refinery :) and a good range of difficulty from slabs to overhanging with enough routes to keep you busy for a day. It will be possible to climb here year round. The routes are generally well protected, lots of bolts and in the right places but there are a few lines that may seem run out - again - the bolts are where you need them most. It is a good idea to carry a range of quickdraws including a couple of alpine draws for Shackleton's and Stuck in the Flow. There are bolted anchors with maillons for rapelling so getting down is easy. There is an easy walk up on the left hand side for setting top ropes.

Getting There

The cliff is located in east Saint John on city land. Drive to the end of Glen Road (search "321 Glen Rd, Saint John, NB" into Google Maps for the parking lot). As you approach the dead end look up and left - you will see the cliff. Do not park so as to block access to the ATV trail (on right) unless you enjoy having your car keyed.
Follow the ATV trail through the barrier for a few minutes until you hit the first trail intersection. Take a left and follow this trail until you're at the cliff. Then rock on!

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Glen Falls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
Endurance
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Yelcho
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Stuck in the Flow
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Shackleton's Voyage
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Trouble at the Henhouse
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Hanger Four
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Courage
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Bobcaygeon
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Endurance
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Yelcho
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Stuck in the Flow
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Shackleton's Voyage
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Trouble at the Henhouse
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hanger Four
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Courage
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bobcaygeon
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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