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Glen Falls

International > N America > Canada > New Brunswick

Description

So many good things about this sport crag so let's get started - it faces south, dries fast after a rain. the rock (granodiorite and gneiss) is well featured and solid with excellent friction, short approach (about a 5 minute walk), nice setting for being in a city (great view of the Irving Oil refinery :) and a good range of difficulty from slabs to overhanging with enough routes to keep you busy for a day. It will be possible to climb here year round. The routes are generally well protected, lots of bolts and in the right places but there are a few lines that may seem run out - again - the bolts are where you need them most. It is a good idea to carry a range of quickdraws including a couple of alpine draws for Shackleton's and Stuck in the Flow. There is an easy walk up on the left hand side for setting top ropes.

Getting There

The cliff is located in east Saint John on city land. Drive to the end of Glen Road (search "321 Glen Rd, Saint John, NB" into Google Maps for the parking lot). As you approach the dead end look up and left - you will see the cliff. Do not park so as to block access to the ATV trail (on right) unless you enjoy having your car keyed.
Follow the ATV trail through the barrier for a few minutes until you hit the first trail intersection. Take a left and follow this trail until you're at the cliff. Then rock on!

Routes from Left to Right

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To get to the parking lot, put into Google Maps:
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321 Glen Rd, Saint John, NB
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The trail is behind the barricade- do not go up the driveway that has a no trespassing sign.
[Hide Photo] To get to the parking lot, put into Google Maps: 321 Glen Rd, Saint John, NB The trail is behind the barricade- do not go up the driveway that has a no trespassing sign.
View of the cliff from the end of Glen Road.
[Hide Photo] View of the cliff from the end of Glen Road.

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[Hide Comment] Check out this blog post from a couple of visiting Brits discovering this great climbing area:
rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/20… Apr 13, 2020