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So many good things about this sport crag so let's get started - it faces south, dries fast after a rain. the rock (granodiorite and gneiss) is well featured and solid with excellent friction, short approach (about a 5 minute walk), nice setting for being in a city (great view of the Irving Oil refinery :) and a good range of difficulty from slabs to overhanging with enough routes to keep you busy for a day. It will be possible to climb here year round. The routes are generally well protected, lots of bolts and in the right places but there are a few lines that may seem run out - again - the bolts are where you need them most. It is a good idea to carry a range of quickdraws including a couple of alpine draws for Shackleton's and Stuck in the Flow. There is an easy walk up on the left hand side for setting top ropes.
The cliff is located in east Saint John on city land. Drive to the end of Glen Road (search "321 Glen Rd, Saint John, NB" into Google Maps for the parking lot). As you approach the dead end look up and left - you will see the cliff. Do not park so as to block access to the ATV trail (on right) unless you enjoy having your car keyed.
Follow the ATV trail through the barrier for a few minutes until you hit the first trail intersection. Take a left and follow this trail until you're at the cliff. Then rock on!
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● The Smell Of Money |
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport | ||
| ● Springtime in Vienna |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | ||
| ● Trouble at the Henhouse |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● Courage |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Bobcaygeon |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Hanger Four |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● At Transformation |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport | ||
| ● Double Flame Thrower |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport | ||
| ● Stuck in the Flow |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | ||
| ● Shackleton's Voyage |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | ||
| ● Yelcho |
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | ||
| ● Endurance |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport | ||
| ● Lunch Break Arete |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport |
rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/20… Apr 13, 2020