Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Greg Hughes and Mike Parker
Page Views: 338 total · 7/month
Shared By: Greg Hughes on Oct 22, 2014
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

There is a lot of variety packed into this long pitch. An easy start, a roof to surmount, a long corner providing great stemming, a short but tricky bolt protected traverse and to finish off this test of endurance - a burly crack section. Watch out for rope drag.

Location

At the X Wall look for a big roof about 50 feet off the deck. The route starts just above a large spruce tree in the corner system below the roof.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Maybe double up from .5 to #1 camalots. One bolt protects a techy traverse. Bolted rappel stations get you to the ground.

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Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.10c
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.10c
Best route that I've climbed at McQuirks and one of NB's best route!

FYI - A 70 M rope does not get you back to the ground. You will have to downclimb about 15 feet of 5.0. Tie Knots at the end of your rope! Jun 20, 2016
chuckdrew
Cape Elizabeth, Maine
  5.10c
chuckdrew   Cape Elizabeth, Maine
  5.10c
Fantastic route!

We did it in two pitches which definitely makes it less of a marathon - there is a excellent belay station just pass the large roof. The first pitch was 5.8 Sep 4, 2018