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Routes in McQuirks Mountain

5.7 In Slippers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
After Midnight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Agent Smith T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Ain't Nobody Here But Us Chickens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Anatomy Lesson T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Big Moe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Biomechanics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blackcrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Blackfly T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Blue Pill, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Boogers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Combat Math T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crack Machine, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crucible, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dance Platform T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Detour T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dodging Bullets T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Dumpster Diving T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Eat Moe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Emerald City T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Fake Right - Go Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fifty Mission Cap T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Five Easy Pieces T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Follow the White Rabbit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Four Eyed Moe T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fred's Book T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Gunsmoke and The Truth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hallway, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Harvest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Have At 'Er T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I'm Too Drunk For This T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Incisor T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jaws T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Kraft Dinner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Let The Good Times Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Life Is So Peculiar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Moe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Live Simply T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Lobster Claw T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Magic X T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mankey Rack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Merlin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Morpheus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mr. Anderson T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Neutral Tribe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nightbird T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nightbird Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Moe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nose, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Octopus Ink T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Night in Copenhagen T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oracle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PB and Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pill, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Salad Fingers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scars and Stripes T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Space Between, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steve French T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taco or Westy T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Take A Shower T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Take Me To Your Leader T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trinity T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trolley Tracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Up Yours T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
What's The Use in Getting Sober T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Will Belay For Food T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Zen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Greg and Stacey Hughes
Page Views: 431 total · 9/month
Shared By: Greg Hughes on Oct 23, 2014
Admins: Dom, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 starts on a crack riddled slab below the "X Wall" sign. Climb up through easy ground and then move slightly left through a slab feature to a corner crack system. Climb the crack to a perfect belay ledge and bolt anchor. This pitch is surprisingly as good or better than the second. 120 feet
Pitch 2 eats gear and follows the left leaning hand/fist crack that straightens and narrows to fingers near the top. 90 feet
Nice clean granite with fantastic cracks make for some splendid climbing from top to bottom. A beautiful climb.

Protection

Single rack to 3" maybe double up on 1 to 3 for pitch 2. Anchor is shared with Up Yours and Fifty Mission Cap. Use the Emerald City anchor on your second rappel to get back to your packs.

Photos

chuckdrew
Cape Elizabeth, Maine
  5.8
chuckdrew   Cape Elizabeth, Maine
  5.8
Classic route! Eats gear, spacious belay ledges, and excellent views.

If you don't feel like doing two rappels, the route can be rapped with a single 70m but there is 15 feet of 5.0 down-climbing to the base.

P.s. Look out for spiders! Sep 4, 2018

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