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Areas in Norway

Bergefjellet (Snåreberget) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Bodø/Salten Area 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Dirdalsveggen 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hemsedal Ice 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Kårstø 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lofoten 31 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 33
Marvik 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Møre og Romsdal 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 4 / 6
Nissedal 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Oppdal* 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 2
Oslo 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Rogaland 12 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 17
Senja 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Sogn og Fjordane 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 4
Steigen/Hamarøy 9 / 10 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Stetinden 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Telemark 46 / 38 / 7 / 0 / 45 / 7 / 23 / 0 / 114
Trøndelag 0 / 23 / 1 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Uksedal (Uskedalen) 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 2,989 ft
GPS: 60.673, 9.404 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 80,741 total · 716/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008 with updates
Admins: Michael Sullivan

Description

Norway has an incredible variety of climbing, from fjord-side sport crags to polar alpine epics.

The highlight of alpine climbing in the country is an ascent of its "national" mountain, Stetinden. The standard route weighs in at YDS 5.6, while the enticing South Pillar Route tallies in ~5.9.

The Lofoten Islands are a popular climber's destination, and offer everything from hard bouldering to long alpine routes.

Climbing potential exists at almost every turn in Norway, so don't despair if your journey doesn't take you to one of these locales. Drop by the local outdoor sports store and look for a partner and information. Great climbing can be had close to almost every major city, including Bergen & Oslo.
Keep in mind that the weather plays a significant role in Norwegian climbing. It will rain at some time during your stay, if not the whole time. Norwegian climbers take a philosophical view of rain, classifying showers in two types: those wherein you can still climb, and the ones that are too drenching to climb in!
Not all cliffs are "good" for climbing, though in Norway, very little doesn't get climbed regardless. The infamous Troll Wall for example, is a 5000' high chosspile, but it is also one of the most sought-after faces on the planet.

Bouldering:
- Trøndelag: Harbak and Vingsand. Best bouldering in the country.
- Oslo: got good bouldering right of the T
- Bergen: Øygarden & Matre.

Sport:
- Trøndelag: Flatanger and Hell
- West coast: Sogndal, Stryn (Beachen)

Trad/alpine:
- Lofoten: Spectacluar scenery and alpine climbs straight from the shore.
- Romsdal (Åndalsnes) - including classics as the big wall Troll Wall and Romsdalshorn.
- Nissedal: long slab-climbs.

Ice:
- Rjukan: the best known ice climbing area in Norway.
- Oppdal/Sunndal: this area offers both ice cragging and long serious alpine climbs. It has seen a lot of development the last couple of years, where many new alpine climbs have been established.

Mountaineering:
- Hurrungane: the main spot for mountaineering and alpine in Norway.
- Jotunheimen: high altitude, good spring skiing.
- Jostedals glacier area
- Western norway in general: Romsdal, Sunnmøre alps, Nordfjord, Sogn. Big area with plenty plenty of opportunities.
- Lofoten
- Tromsø alps

Getting There

By air from the New World; by train, ferry, or auto from Europe.
While public transport excels in Norway, the backwaters have very limited schedules. Travel to Stetinden, for instance, is possible via public transport, but if your travel time is limited, consider renting a car.

240 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Norway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Den Sorte Kamin (The Black Chimney)
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
via lara
Trad 8 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pianohandler Lunds Rute
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
agent orange
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bare Blabaer
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gollum
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gandalf
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forsida
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lys Og Skygge.
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
mot sola
Trad 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sydpillaren (South Pillar)
Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Haegar
Trad 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vestpillaren
Trad 12 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Den Sorte Kamin (The Black… Telemark > Bø i Telemark > Gygrestolen 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
via lara Nissedal 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 8 pitches
Pianohandler Lunds Rute Lofoten > Pianokrakken 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
agent orange Nissedal 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad 7 pitches
Bare Blabaer Lofoten > Djupfjord 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Gollum Lofoten > Gandalf Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Gandalf Lofoten > Gandalf Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Forsida Lofoten > Svolvaergeita 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Lys Og Skygge. Lofoten > Pianokrakken 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
mot sola Nissedal 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Sydpillaren (South Pillar) Stetinden 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
Haegar Nissedal 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Vestpillaren Lofoten > Presten 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 12 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Norway »

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Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Don't forget Svalbard! May 12, 2017
Anyone have a copy of Lofoten Rock by Chris Craggs they'd be willing to sell? Aug 22, 2016
Ben.Foster
West Bend, WI
Ben.Foster   West Bend, WI
I used to live on the southern coast in Norway (Mandal) and the guidebook for just that area is about as thick as a novel. There are so many crags all around, and most of them are bolted as well. World class rock all around for sure. Mar 31, 2016
In the description it talks about fjord side crags and I'm imagining stepping out of a boat and onto the rock. Is this realistic? If it is that sounds amazing. Feb 2, 2016
Custer
Bergen, Norway
Custer   Bergen, Norway
Bergen is better known for sport climbing since there are over 50 developed sport crags with grades ranging from 5.8-5.14 on bomber granite with bomber bolts and many crags are right above the ocean. Dec 24, 2015
Kristian Starheim
Trondheim, Norway
Kristian Starheim   Trondheim, Norway
Essentials:

Bouldering:
- Trøndelag: Harbak and Vingsand. Best bouldering in the country.
- Oslo: got good bouldering right of the T
- Bergen: Øygarden & Matre.

Sport:
- Trøndelag: Flatanger and Hell
- West coast: Sogndal, Stryn (Beachen)

Trad/alpine:
- Lofoten: Spectacluar scenery and alpine climbs straight from the shore.
- Romsdal (Åndalsnes) - including classics as the big wall Troll Wall and Romsdalshorn.
- Nissedal: long slab-climbs.

Ice:
- Rjukan: the best known ice climbing area in Norway.
- Oppdal/Sunndal: this area offers both ice cragging and long serious alpine climbs. It has seen a lot of development the last couple of years, where many new alpine climbs have been established.

Mountaineering:
- Hurrungane: the main spot for mountaineering and alpine in Norway.
- Jotunheimen: high altitude, good spring skiing.
- Jostedals glacier area
- Western norway in general: Romsdal, Sunnmøre alps, Nordfjord, Sogn. Big area with plenty plenty of opportunities.
- Lofoten
- Tromsø alps Jul 6, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Flatanger? It would be nice to see information and photos. Oct 8, 2012

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