Elevation: 2,989 ft
GPS: 60.673, 9.404 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 277,883 total · 1,947/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008 with improvements by Kristian Starheim
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan

Description

Norway has an incredible variety of climbing, from fjord-side sport crags to polar alpine epics.

The highlight of alpine climbing in the country is an ascent of its "national" mountain, Stetinden. The standard route weighs in at YDS 5.6, while the enticing South Pillar Route tallies in ~5.9.

The Lofoten Islands are a popular climber's destination, and offer everything from hard bouldering to long alpine routes.

Climbing potential exists at almost every turn in Norway, so don't despair if your journey doesn't take you to one of these locales. Drop by the local outdoor sports store and look for a partner and information. Great climbing can be had close to almost every major city, including Bergen & Oslo.
Keep in mind that the weather plays a significant role in Norwegian climbing. It will rain at some time during your stay, if not the whole time. Norwegian climbers take a philosophical view of rain, classifying showers in two types: those wherein you can still climb, and the ones that are too drenching to climb in!
Not all cliffs are "good" for climbing, though in Norway, very little doesn't get climbed regardless. The infamous Troll Wall for example, is a 5000' high chosspile, but it is also one of the most sought-after faces on the planet.

Bouldering:
- Trøndelag: Harbak and Vingsand. Best bouldering in the country.
- Oslo: got good bouldering right of the T
- Bergen: Øygarden & Matre.

Sport:
- Trøndelag: Flatanger and Hell
- West coast: Sogndal, Stryn (Beachen)

Trad/alpine:
- Lofoten: Spectacluar scenery and alpine climbs straight from the shore.
- Romsdal (Åndalsnes) - including classics as the big wall Troll Wall and Romsdalshorn.
- Nissedal: long slab-climbs.

Ice:
- Rjukan: the best known ice climbing area in Norway.
- Oppdal/Sunndal: this area offers both ice cragging and long serious alpine climbs. It has seen a lot of development the last couple of years, where many new alpine climbs have been established.

Mountaineering:
- Hurrungane: the main spot for mountaineering and alpine in Norway.
- Jotunheimen: high altitude, good spring skiing.
- Jostedals glacier area
- Western norway in general: Romsdal, Sunnmøre alps, Nordfjord, Sogn. Big area with plenty plenty of opportunities.
- Lofoten
- Tromsø alps

Getting There

By air from the New World; by train, ferry, or auto from Europe.
While public transport excels in Norway, the backwaters have very limited schedules. Travel to Stetinden, for instance, is possible via public transport, but if your travel time is limited, consider renting a car.

308 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Norway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 8
via lara
Trad 8 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Bare Blabaer
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Gollum
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Gandalf
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Forsida
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Lys Og Skygge.
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 5
mot sola
Trad 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Skiloperen
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Sydpillaren (South Pillar)
Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Lundeklubben
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Haegar
Trad 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 35
Vestpillaren
Trad 12 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Gulrot tyven
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Tapir
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Espen Askeladd Soker Lykken
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
via lara Nissedal
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 8 pitches
Bare Blabaer Lofoten > Djupfjord
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Gollum Lofoten > Gandalf Wall
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Gandalf Lofoten > Gandalf Wall
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Forsida Lofoten > Svolvaergeita
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Lys Og Skygge. Lofoten > Pianokrakken
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
mot sola Nissedal
 5
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Skiloperen Lofoten > Festvag > Store Festvag
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sydpillaren (South Pillar) Stetinden
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 13 pitches
Lundeklubben Lofoten > Festvag > Store Festvag
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Haegar Nissedal
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Vestpillaren Lofoten > Presten
 35
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 12 pitches
Gulrot tyven Trøndelag > … > Hanshelleren > Left Side
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tapir Lofoten > Pianokrakken
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Espen Askeladd Soker Lykken Trøndelag > … > Hanshelleren > Left Side
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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