Avg: 3.5 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tim Hansen, Ingun Taastad 1986|
|Page Views:||6,645 total · 49/month|
|Shared By:||Carol Kotchek on Aug 27, 2010|
|Admins:||Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan|
Pitch 3 Continue up V groove until it pinches down and becomes awkward. Step right on a good foothold to another fantastic crack that takes you to a good stance on a ledge. 5-8 35M
Pitch 4 Layback and jam up to some loose chockstones. Step right and climb another classic crack to a good stance right below a sustained looking crack 5-8 28M
Pitch 5 Climb yet another perfect sustained hand and finger crack to a bolted belay. 5-8 40M
Pitch 6 The nature of the climb changes to face. Climb more or less straight above the belay on face and slab to the right of a small roof finding pro where you can. Once past the roof there is a shallow crack system. Follow this to another bolted belay stance. 5-7 40M
Pitch 7 The angle of the rock eases off. Climb more or less straight up from the belay, through some easy ground with some loose rock, up to a set of fixed anchors.
Descent: A new set of descent anchors have been installed to the right of the route which prevents pulling ropes over a nasty crack and rappelling down on top of ascent parties.
On pitch 5 there is an option to clip a bolt to the right and climb right to under a roof. There you will find the new abseil route. Rappel straight down these anchors to easily discover the remaining rappel stations. If climbing all 7 pitches, rap the route to the top of pitch 6. From there head to your right over the roof to the new rap stations.