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Routes in Djupfjord

Bare Blabaer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coley Smoke T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tim Hansen, Ingun Taastad 1986
Page Views: 3,693 total, 42/month
Shared By: Carol Kotchek on Aug 27, 2010
Admins: Michael Sullivan

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 & 2 (in guidebook) are easily combined. Start up a small slab on easy ground to a sustained 5-8 finger crack. When crack eases off belay at any comfortable station below a V groove. 55M

Pitch 3 Continue up V groove until it pinches down and becomes awkward. Step right on a good foothold to another fantastic crack that takes you to a good stance on a ledge. 5-8 35M

Pitch 4 Layback and jam up to some loose chockstones. Step right and climb another classic crack to a good stance right below a sustained looking crack 5-8 28M

Pitch 5 Climb yet another perfect sustained hand and finger crack to a bolted belay. 5-8 40M

Pitch 6 The nature of the climb changes to face. Climb more or less straight above the belay on face and slab to the right of a small roof finding pro where you can. Once past the roof there is a shallow crack system. Follow this to another bolted belay stance. 5-7 40M

Pitch 7 The angle of the rock eases off. Climb more or less straight up from the belay, through some easy ground with some loose rock, up to a set of fixed anchors.

Location

Follow a path on the north western shore of Djupfjord. Veer right at the end of the fjord on a strip of land that separates the fjord from the lake. At this point the slab will be above you off to the left. You can't miss the way to the crag as many others have come before you. Approach time around 1 hour 15 minutes.

Descent: A new set of descent anchors have been installed to the right of the route which prevents pulling ropes over a nasty crack and rappelling down on top of ascent parties.
On pitch 5 there is an option to clip a bolt to the right and climb right to under a roof. There you will find the new abseil route. Rappel straight down these anchors to easily discover the remaining rappel stations. If climbing all 7 pitches, rap the route to the top of pitch 6. From there head to your right over the roof to the new rap stations.

Protection

Standard rack. Protection up to a #3 Camalot
Tommy L-D  
 
Pitches 6 & 7 seem to seep more after a rain and are lower quality, 1-5 are dry and better climbing Aug 28, 2017
Video of the route BareBlaabaer. More pictures at aappogned.com Sep 29, 2011
Carol Kotchek
Louisville, Colorado
 
Carol Kotchek   Louisville, Colorado
 
This climb is crowded. We got there early (10am) and were the first ones on the route. Most people wait for the afternoon sun to hit around 1pm. Aug 28, 2010