Elevation: 1,734 ft
GPS: 68.184, 14.274 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 80,636 total · 663/month
Shared By: Todd Miller on Aug 5, 2010
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan

Description

The Lofoten Islands are a rugged chain of mountainous islands off the west coast of northern Norway, rising abruptly from the sparkling blue waters of the Norwegian Sea. It really is one of the more unique and beautiful climbing areas you will ever visit.

Located north of the Arctic Circle, during the height of the summer climbing season you can climb all day without a headlamp, sometimes in the direct rays of the midnight sun. The islands do catch a lot of storms from different directions and some rain should be expected on any extended visit. That said, the weather can also be sunny and warm for extended periods of time, and most of the rock dries very quickly after rain. Still air seems to be rare - there is almost always anything ranging from a slight breeze to fairly solid wind - this also helps to dry the rock after rain.

The rock is granite, but don't expect the sort of granite that you might find in Yosemite. If I had to pick a place in the U.S., I'd say the rock reminded me most of the more solid rock in Rocky Mountain National Park (which I know, is not granite). It is generally very solid, but even though it is at sea level, it is an alpine environment and you will encounter some occasional looseness. However, most of the popular routes are very clean. There are also pretty big alpine climbs which will offer a completely different experience. The climbing in Lofoten ranges from single pitch routes, to short multi pitch climbs (2-4 short pitches - a lot of the climbs fall into this category), long free routes like those on Presten, to moderate alpine ridges, to serious alpine walls.

For such a remote location, the routes can get crowded. Expect lines on popular classics like "Vestpillaren" and "Bare Blabaer". The guidebook uses a quality rating system from no stars to 3 stars, and also uses a "Top 50" category for 50 routes routes that the authors consider the classics. If you get away from the Top 50 routes, it is very easy to avoid queuing up for routes.

The guidebook, "Lofoten Rock" by Chris Craggs and Thorbjorn Enevold, is published by Rockfax (UK) and is very well organized and written entirely in English. It is hard to come by in the U.S. and expensive. It can be purchased in Lofoten from the shop in Henningsvaer.

Getting There

Lofoten is a long way from most places, which is part of its charm. In some locations on the islands, you really get the feeling that you're at the end of the Earth.

The truth is, although it takes time and can be expensive, it really isn't that hard to get to Lofoten. The islands are accessible by road, ferry, or plane. The hardest part may be choosing a travel option that suits your budget and plan. The main town that you are trying to reach is Svolvaer. Although not completely necessary, having a car is very helpful in Lofoten. A lot of the climbing is a short walk from the main camping area near Hennigsvaer. But if you want to explore the rest of the islands, get groceries, or climb in some of the areas outside of Henningsvaer, you will want a car.

Everything in Norway is expensive. Fortunately in Lofoten, the camping is the one part of your trip that will not put a strain on your wallet - its free. Most climbers camp in the area off of the road beneath the Gandalf Wall near Henningsvaer. Clean drinking water is available at the site, however toilets and trash cans are not. The camping is beautiful though - roadside camping right along the water, a stones throw from the crags.

Groceries are available in Henningsvaer (which although it appears close, is still about a 40 minute walk from the camping area). The best bet for groceries is to drive into Svolvaer where there are bigger stores. Beer can be purchased in grocery stores during limited hours. Anything else (wine, etc.) needs to be purchased from the state run store in Svolvaer. For camping stoves, you will not find white gas or the little green Coleman propane canisters. Bring a stove that uses butane/propane canisters.

72 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lofoten

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
Pianohandler Lunds Rute
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Bare Blabaer
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Gollum
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Gandalf
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Forsida
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 4
Applecake Arete
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Lys Og Skygge.
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Skiloperen
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Gamle rev
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Tromso ekspressen
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Lundeklubben
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Svenske Diedret
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 35
Vestpillaren
Trad 12 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Tapir
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pianohandler Lunds Rute Pianokrakken
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Bare Blabaer Djupfjord
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Gollum Gandalf Wall
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Gandalf Gandalf Wall
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Forsida Svolvaergeita
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Applecake Arete Pianokrakken
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Lys Og Skygge. Pianokrakken
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Skiloperen Festvag > Store Festvag
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Gamle rev Gandalf Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Tromso ekspressen Gandalf Wall
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Lundeklubben Festvag > Store Festvag
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Svenske Diedret Paradiset > Svenske diedret area
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Vestpillaren Presten
 35
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 12 pitches
Tapir Pianokrakken
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lofoten »

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