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| Elevation: | 106 ft | 32 m |
| GPS: |
68.28233, 14.18876 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 138,457 total · 737/month | |
| Shared By: | Todd Miller on Aug 5, 2010 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
The Lofoten Islands are a rugged chain of mountainous islands off the west coast of northern Norway, rising abruptly from the sparkling blue waters of the Norwegian Sea. It really is one of the more unique and beautiful climbing areas you'll ever visit.
Located north of the Arctic Circle, during the height of the summer climbing season you can climb all day without a headlamp, sometimes in the direct rays of the midnight sun. The islands do catch a lot of storms from different directions and some rain should be expected on any extended visit. That said, the weather can also be sunny and warm for extended periods of time, and most of the rock dries very quickly after rain. Still air seems to be rare - there is almost always anything ranging from a slight breeze to fairly solid wind - this also helps to dry the rock after rain.
The rock is granite, but don't expect the sort of granite that you might find in Yosemite. If I had to pick a place in the U.S., I'd say the rock reminded me most of the more solid rock in Rocky Mountain National Park (which I know, is not granite). It is generally very solid, but even though it is at sea level, it is an alpine environment and you'll encounter some occasional looseness. However, most of the popular routes are very clean. There are also pretty big alpine climbs which will offer a completely different experience. The climbing in Lofoten ranges from single pitch routes, to short multi pitch climbs (2-4 short pitches - a lot of the climbs fall into this category), long free routes like those on Presten, to moderate alpine ridges, to serious alpine walls.
For such a remote location, the routes can get crowded. Expect lines on popular classics like "Vestpillaren Direct" and "Bare Blåbær". The guidebook uses a quality rating system from no stars to 3 stars, and also uses a "Top 50" category for 50 routes routes that the authors consider the classics (the 2024 edition no longer includes the top 50 list). If you get away from the Top 50 routes, it is very easy to avoid queuing up for routes.
Getting There
Lofoten is a long way from most places, which is part of its charm. In some locations on the islands, you really get the feeling that you're at the end of the Earth.
The truth is, although it takes time and can be expensive, it really isn't that hard to get to Lofoten. The islands are accessible by road, ferry, or plane. The hardest part may be choosing a travel option that suits your budget and plan. The main town that you are trying to reach is Svolvær. Although not completely necessary, having a car is very helpful in Lofoten. A lot of the climbing is a short walk from the main camping area near Hennigsvær. But if you want to explore the rest of the islands, get groceries, or climb in some of the areas outside of Henningsvær, you'll want a car.
Be mindful that everything in Norway is expensive. Groceries are available in Henningsvær (which although it appears close, is still about a 40 minute walk from the camping area). The best bet for groceries is to drive into Svolvær where there are bigger stores (like KIWI). Beer can be purchased in grocery stores during limited hours. Anything else (wine, etc.) needs to be purchased from the state run store in Svolvær. For camping stoves, you'll not find white gas or the little green Coleman propane canisters. Bring a stove that uses butane/propane canisters, which can be purchased at the grocery stores in town as well as the gear shops.
Use the yr website for weather. While it is generally reliable, weather can still change quickly, so be prepared.
Camping & Parking
CAMPING: In Norway, there is the "Right to Roam" law (allemannsretten) that allows people to camp for free on uncultivated land (even if it is private land), as long as it is 150m from any buildings or fences. The law specifies up to two nights, however that portion does not appear to be enforced, as people can regularly be found camping in the same spot for weeks. There are some restrictions- this map is a helpful resource.
PARKING: While the "Right to Roam" permits camping almost anywhere, it does NOT permit PARKING anywhere you want. As of July 2025, the parking around Lofoten has become tricky. In the past 5 years or so, Lofoten has gotten overrun with camper vans parked all over the place. Since the locals could not restrict access to camping, instead access has been restricted through parking fees. The old main camping spots at Kalle and Henningsvaer both charge €20/day for parking now, and you get zero amenities with that, because you're not paying for a camping spot, you're paying for a parking spot.
***There is still one main holdout of nice tent spots outside Henningsvaer where its free to park and all the climbers seem to stay. In the interest of not blowing it up and ruining it, please just message me (Caroline Yearwood) and I will be happy to share the beta! UPDATE: This parking site is now closed as of August 2025***
Download the EasyPark app ahead of time. It is much more convenient than using the machines, and if you end up parking for less time than anticipated it returns that money. Be prepared to shell out for parking for time to time. For example, to climb Svolværgeita you now need to pay to park (about $4/hour I believe).
There are free bathrooms in the big parking lot on the left after you have gone over the 2nd bridge going into Henningsvær (there's signage indicating parking and WC). The sinks are deep enough where you can easily fill up your water here too.
Guidebooks
The guidebook, "Lofoten Rock" by Chris Craggs and Thorbjorn Enevold, is published by Rockfax (UK) and is very well organized and written entirely in English. There is a new edition as of 2024 that is updated to reflect new parking rules for all the major areas. It is hard to come by in the U.S. and expensive. It can be purchased in Lofoten for about $60 US from the climbing shop in Henningsvær, as well at Retur in Svolvær. If you wish to have access to the book before your trip for planning purposes, you could get a monthly subscription to Rockfax, then and purchase a digital copy of the book for about £26.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lofoten
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