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Routes in Pianokrakken

Applecake Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Grand Theft Otto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Lys Og Skygge. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pianohandler Lunds Rute T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tapir T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: E. Webster, T. Solberg, T. Enevold, 1991
Page Views: 457 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 29, 2014
Admins: Michael Sullivan, Phil Lauffen

You & This Route


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Description

Another great route on Piannocracken, and other rated top 50 in the guidebook.
Scramble up the slab below the massive arch of Soria Moria, and find a small crack and flake system that allows access, via a left-leaning line, onto the face above. Climb that (awkward 5.9, crafty gear) to just below the right hand edge of a large roof on the arete to the left of the right-leaning arch.
Proper gear and sling-work will allow for minimal drag, but if you goof, you may be forced to do this line in 2 pitches (as described in the guidebook). Split left and traverse out left under the big roof to come out around its left side. The optional belay is here, but is not a great arrangement - skip this if possible (we did) and continue climbing. Trend up and right, now climbing on the left side of the arete, always within reach of it to it's end, and then up one of two crack options to the bolt and chain anchor.

Location

This route stats up the wall as for Soria Moria, but rather than follow the massive arch of that route, it splits left under a roof and out onto the left side of the Arete, climbing just to the right of the line of Applecake Arette.

Protection

A rack to 3" plus lang slings.

Photos

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I really enjoyed this route. My first trad lead without a guide. We split the route into two parts, which was fine. Small nuts are useful for the crux (two small cracks early in the first pitch. Bring a long enough rope (double?) for the rap. Mar 5, 2017
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
The right crackline at the top is given 10a in the guidebook and a different name, but it didn't really add much to the difficulty... nice climbing though! May 19, 2017

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