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Routes in Svolvaergeita

1910 Ruta T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Forsida T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

This is probably the most famous rock feature in Lofoten. Most climbers will be far more impressed by the sweeping granite wall of Presten, but Svolvaergeita gets more attention.

Svolvaergeita ("The Svolvaer Goat") is a clean granite spire topped by two blocks, or horns, rising straight above the town of Svolvaer. The tradition is to jump from the higher spire to the lower one. The lower summit block is weathering away, and in the winter of 2006/7 a chunk of the inner edge fell off. The guidebook states that the jump is "no longer recommended", but people still do it. Have at it, if that's your thing. The graveyard below adds encouragement. The views from up on the spire are spectacular.

Getting There

From Henningsvaer, drive to Svolvaer. When arriving to town, you will go through a tunnel - go left at the roundabout after the tunnel. Turn left into Nyveien (sign for Melkerdalen/Nybyen. Follow the road around to the right, then right again, then make a left on the road at the graveyard, then turn left again and drive downhill. Park in front of the school. The trail leaves from here and is marked "Sti/Track".

Head up the trail - shortly after starting the hike you will come to a chain leading up a slab. Go up this, and continue following the blazes up the steep trail to the shoulder above, then cut right over towards Svolvaergeita.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Svolvaergeita

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Forsida
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Forsida 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
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