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Svolværgeita Rock Climbing

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Routes in Svolværgeita

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	1910 Ruta T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Englevinger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Forsida T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	941 ft	287 m
GPS:	68.24612, 14.58803 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	11,468 total · 59/month
Shared By:	Todd Miller on Aug 7, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Michael Sullivan, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is probably the most famous rock feature in Lofoten. Most climbers will be far more impressed by the sweeping granite wall of Presten, but Svolværgeita gets more attention.

Svolværgeita ("The Svolvær Goat") is a clean granite spire topped by two blocks, or horns, rising straight above the town of Svolvær. The tradition is to jump from the higher spire to the lower one. The lower summit block is weathering away, and in the winter of 2006/7 a chunk of the inner edge fell off. The guidebook states that the jump is "no longer recommended", but people still do it. Have at it, if that's your thing. The graveyard below adds encouragement. The views from up on the spire are spectacular.

Getting There

From Henningsvær, drive to Svolvær. When arriving to town, you'll go through a tunnel - go left at the roundabout after the tunnel. Turn left into Nyveien (sign for Melkerdalen/Nybyen. Follow the road around to the right, then right again, then make a left on the road at the graveyard, then turn left again and drive downhill. Park in front of the school. The trail leaves from here and is marked "Svolværgeita”

Head up the newly installed (2020) stone stair path (passing the old slab with chains, which is to the left of the path as you start up) to the shoulder above, then cut right off the path and over towards Svolværgeita (the cut off is also signed).