Avg: 3.4 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||3,344 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Todd Miller on Aug 7, 2010|
|Admins:||Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan|
P2: (5.7, 20m) Continue up the ramp, climbing around a large boulder at its top. Up behind this is a flat dirt area at the start of P3 - belay here.
P3: (5.9, 30m) Climb up flakes then out and left to the base of the beautiful crack. Climb up this fun crack until it widens near the top. Here, you can either continue and grovel up the wide crack, or stem between it and the crack on the other side of the block and reach for the top of the block. Then, traverse left and belay on the shoulder, which offers a better belay then you would have if you went down to the more comfy part of the ledge.
P4: (5.9, 30m) Remove the belay and walk down to the comfort and security of the big ledge. Belay this pitch here. Start straight up the stacked blocks and gain the nice crack above. The crack widens and heads up and right. Wedged flakes inside the wide section keep it from being a total thrutch. Once through the wide section, continue up the fine cracks above and belay in blocks at the notch.
P5: (5.9, 25m) From the belay in the notch, head up and right to a steep cruxy move up the crack, passing by a huge old piece of fixed hardware. Continue climbing until near the notch between the two summits, then traverse left and climb up the face on the left side of the higher summit to the top. There are bolts on the other side of the summit block, but they are horribly placed (apparently the their location made more sense before the chunk of the lower summit fell off). A .5 Camalot makes for a good directional while sitting on the summit belaying the second.
To descend, make two rappels. A short rappel from the summit leads to a big ledge with another set of anchors. From here, another rappel gets you down. A single 60m rope will get you down. Hike down the steep trail below and regain the main trail.