Avg: 3.4 from 14 votes
Routes in Svolvaergeita
|1910 Ruta T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Forsida T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||1,624 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||Todd Miller on Aug 7, 2010|
DescriptionP1: (5.7, 30m) Start up the well traveled face/crack to the left of the small tree at the base. Climb up and slightly left, eventually coming to steep hand crack through a bulge. Climb up this (or bypass it to the right) and gain a ramp which leads up and left. With good runnering, it is best to continue on and link this pitch with P2 - its an easy and logical link. If you are already battling rope drag, belay here.
P2: (5.7, 20m) Continue up the ramp, climbing around a large boulder at its top. Up behind this is a flat dirt area at the start of P3 - belay here.
P3: (5.9, 30m) Climb up flakes then out and left to the base of the beautiful crack. Climb up this fun crack until it widens near the top. Here, you can either continue and grovel up the wide crack, or stem between it and the crack on the other side of the block and reach for the top of the block. Then, traverse left and belay on the shoulder, which offers a better belay then you would have if you went down to the more comfy part of the ledge.
P4: (5.9, 30m) Remove the belay and walk down to the comfort and security of the big ledge. Belay this pitch here. Start straight up the stacked blocks and gain the nice crack above. The crack widens and heads up and right. Wedged flakes inside the wide section keep it from being a total thrutch. Once through the wide section, continue up the fine cracks above and belay in blocks at the notch.
P5: (5.9, 25m) From the belay in the notch, head up and right to a steep cruxy move up the crack, passing by a huge old piece of fixed hardware. Continue climbing until near the notch between the two summits, then traverse left and climb up the face on the left side of the higher summit to the top. There are bolts on the other side of the summit block, but they are horribly placed (apparently the their location made more sense before the chunk of the lower summit fell off). A .5 Camalot makes for a good directional while sitting on the summit belaying the second.
LocationFrom the approach hike, you are looking at most of the route. When nearing the formation, you will come to a nice stomped out gear up area before where the path branches. Follow the path as it contours around the steep drainage over to the base of the route. There is a small tree just to the right of the start of the route.
To descend, make two rappels. A short rappel from the summit leads to a big ledge with another set of anchors. From here, another rappel gets you down. A single 60m rope will get you down. Hike down the steep trail below and regain the main trail.