Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: FA Odd-Roar Wiik, Niels Paulsen, Truls Seines 1994, FFA Odd-Roar Wiik, Patrik Fransson 1995
Page Views: 340 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nathaniel Chu on Jul 23, 2018
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan

You & This Route


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Description

A vertical and enjoyably sustained climb. Currently it is the right of two clearly scrubbed paths that works it's way up the face. It is also to the left of a large corner system on the right side of the cliff and has a small triangle roof about half-way up the climb.

P1) 5.10c 30M. Climb a steep crack in a corner into a small overhang, and then continue up the crack until you gain a comfy ledge on your right. Harder than it looked, but easier than the guidebook suggests.

P2) 5.9 35M. Climb the nice crack into a small niche/overhang, work out left from here into a wide pod. Although advertised as a tough off-width, this short wide section requires no off-width skills and houses good hand and fist jams in the back of the crack. No big gear needed. Continue up to a small stance.

P3) 5.10c 30M. Climb the finger crack up the clean face, making good use of solid foot holds and the slightly-less than vertical angle. Traverse slightly right to another steeper crack, and bust up this on good jams to a belay stance. Easy to link to P4.

P4) 5.6 30M. Pick your way up ambling cracks to the top.

Descent: hike west around the reservoir and down the trails in the talus as for Festvag or Presten.

Location

Approach the small buttress at the base of Jomfru Pillaren, locating the right, clearly scrubbed line up the cliff that goes through a small triangle roof/overlap about 40% up. At this buttress, scramble up a steep grassy slope on the right side, watching out for wild roses. Belay here at the base of a crack in a corner.

Protection

Standard rack, with perhaps doubles in the finger sizes.

Photos

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