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Routes in Gandalf Wall

Gandalf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gollum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 330 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Arild Meyer, Sjur Nesheim 1985
Page Views: 768 total · 18/month
Shared By: Aaron Liebling on Aug 18, 2014
Admins: Michael Sullivan

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Description

3 pitches of typical Lofoten granite - mixed jamming and face climbing. Aesthetic and enjoyable well-protected climbing.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 40m) - From the block jam up the crack to a sloping stance.

Pitch 2 (5.7, 35m) - Continue up the crack and over a short slab. Finally, up some thin cracks and a steeper wall to another stance.

Pitch 3 (5.7 25m) - Bear right around a prominent flake, following easier terrain to the top.

Note that it is possible to belay at many different locations and quite easy to miss one of the guidebook belays. One can climb until gear gets low or rope drag dictates stopping.

Location

Just to the left of Gandalf. Starts from the tip of the large block between them.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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