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Routes in The Quarry Wall

Afternoon Delight V2 5+
Alto V2 5+
Ankle Wrecker V2 5+
Banquet T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Phallic, The V4 6B
Blubber V0 4
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bowels, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Comer Culo V2 5+
Crap Crags T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Depression T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Eastern Heart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephantiasis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Finger Wrecker V2 5+
Frank's Tame Years T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frank's Wild Years T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gnome, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Kleptocracy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Koolaid T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marry Me, Becky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moby Dick V6- 7A
Mummy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ode to the Lowball V4 6B
Offwidth Bulge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Night T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pocket Rocket V4 6B
Recession 2016 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Recession Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scotland 'Wales' V4 6B
Shark Jaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharkcicle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Tour, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Bullet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Something to Do V0 4
South ArĂȘte V0 4
Southwest Face V0 4
Stimulus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tough Love T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale, The V3 6A
Yearling V1 5
Unsorted Routes:

Description

The Quarry Wall is a little-known trad climbing area located just east of the main North Table Mountain cliffs. Much of the development has been done by locals Jimmy Menendez, Hank Caylor, and Wayne Crill. The cliff has a handful of short routes of all grades, and three "showcase" longer routes on the main cliff -- all of which are excellent.

Although the rock can be flaky and dirty (primarily due to lack of traffic), and the ambiance is tainted by the constant buzz of the Coors Brewing Company, the wall offers an easy approach and sheltered, south-facing rock, making it a good winter destination. Also, it provides a rare opportunity to do some pretty sustained jamming close to Denver/Boulder. The rock seems to be columnar basalt.

Getting There

From Washington Avenue (Golden's Main Street), take 10th Street east. On your right you will pass the Coors complex. 10th turns into 44th, and parallels CO Hwy 58. After a mile, you'll go under CO 58; take an immediate left hand turn and follow the hairpin turn back west until it dead-ends at a T-intersection. To your left is an on ramp to CO 58 W, to your right is Easley Way. Park on the righthand corner at a large gravel lot.

Looking up from the parking past a few houses, you'll see the wall (and even the climb Bone Crusher) clearly. Hike towards the on ramp and follow a very good trail much further west than you think you want to go. This trail skirts underneath terraced road cuts on the slope above. Eventually the trail will wind back north between the mesas.... Keep your eyes peeled for a very well-traveled trail that splits off to the right (the junction is cairned). Follow this back east again, now above the terraces, until you are directly below the main wall.

There are three lines here: The left is Frank's Wild Years (5.11-), the middle is Silver Bullet (5.12-), and the right is Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher (5.12). Further to the right are the shorter climbs, and easy access to the top for setting up top ropes.

L->R:

West of the Quarry

Koolaid, 10, 1p, 75', gear.
Crap Crags, 8, 1p, 60', gear.

Quarry
A. Shark Jaw, 7, 1p, 90', gear.
B. Sharkcicle, 10-, 1p, 90', gear.
CD. Frank's Tame Years, 11-, 1p, 80', gear.
D. Frank's Wild Years, 11, 1p, 80', gear.
DE1. One Night, 13, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
E1. Banquet, 12, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
E2. Silver Bullet, 11+, 1p, 80', gear.
F. Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher, 12, 1p, 80', gear.
G. Kleptocracy, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Elephantiasis, 12+, 1p, 85', bolts.
I. Depression , 10-, 1p, 65', gear & 1 bolt.
JK. Recession 2016, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
K. Recession Arete, 11+, 1p, 65', bolts.
L. Eastern Heart, 12-, 1p, 80', bolts.
M. ??, 10+, 1p, 40', gear.
N. Tough Love, 12, 1p, 40', 2 nuts in situ & gear.
O. Marry Me, Becky, 10, 1p, gear.
P. The Crill-Menendez, 12, 1p, gear & bolts?
Q?. Stimulus, 12, 1p, bolts.
R. The Gnome, 12, 1p.
S. The Gnome, 12 R, 1p, 40', gear.
T. The Short Tour, 10-, 1p, 40', gear.
U. The Bowels, 8-, 1p, 40', gear.
V. Offwidth Bulge, 9 (+++), 1p, 30', gear or TR.
W. Warm Up Crack, 8, 1p, 30', gear.
X. The Mummy, 8+, 1p, 30', gear & bolts.

East Quarry - to the right.

Dogs

According to a Jefferson County Open Space ranger, dogs in the Jefferson County Open Space (including here) should be on leashes.

Rattlesnake Alert!

There was a baby rattlesnake living in the crack near the top of a route here.

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Quarry Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Riley N  
I believe I left a BD 0.2 x4 with a blue/gray biner on it up by Bonecrusher. Would love to have it back and can provide beer for the return. PM if you have it. Thanks. Oct 1, 2017
Brett Brotherton
Arvada, CO
Brett Brotherton   Arvada, CO
Be cautious, on 5/24 I went to hand jam at the top in the crack just left of the anchors and heard a strange noise. There is a baby rattlesnake living in the crack. May 24, 2017
Hey everyone, I left a pair of TC Pros "43s" at the base of Bone Crusher the other day. If ya found them, leave me a message. It would be cool to get those back. I'll buy ya beers! Mar 10, 2017
Left a BD 0.5 at the base of Bone Crusher on 5/11. PM me if you found it. Thanks! May 18, 2016
SteveZ
Denver, CO
SteveZ   Denver, CO
Found a camera up here today near Frank's Years. Give a pm if it was yours, and we can figure out how to get it back to you. Feb 12, 2013
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Got the poop scared out of me by a big nasty rattler today up above Frank's Wild Years/Bone Crusher area. Be careful up there. Apr 29, 2011
In September 2010, I self-published a new guidebook titled "Golden Rock Climbs" that retails for $20.00. "Golden Rock Climbs" is a complete guide to North Table Mountain (including the four quarry wallls) and the sport climbs of Golden Gate State Park near Dude's Fishing Hole. The new route info at the South Quarry (Aka: the Quarry Wall) is in my guide. To answer Dave Holiday's question, the route between "The Short Tour" and "Stimulus" is called "The Gnome" (5.12b) and was first led by Jimmy Menendez in January 2009. The approach information to the South Quarry shows the two recommended approach trails that follow old road beds versus the steep wash or gully that is shown as the approach in Jason Haas and Ben Schneider's North Table Mountain Guide. Oct 8, 2010
kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
Kind of like, uuhhh, Karma. May 25, 2009
I've been meaning to post about the rockfall. I was up there early April and the rockfall hadn't occurred yet. I was up again May 8 and noticed the rockfall. I'd say it happened late April. Anyone in the area probably would have heard it. Bone Crusher and the other splitters are unaffected, other than a few big boulders at the base. I agree that there is probably going to be another big rockfall event at some point which will bring down the rest of the sport climb. May 25, 2009
Doug, thanks for looking into this more. When I get some time, I would like to consult a surveyor's map rather than this one jeffco.us/jeffco/openspace_…;>>>> as it is not extremely detailed/kinda vague and we do not want to encourage people to cross private property, even if it doesn't currently seem to be a problem. We struggled with the idea of including the area in the guidebook at all, but after talking with two different people from Jefferson County Open Space, they said that they owned the land from the cliff down to the highway now, thus allowing a legal access from the currently purposed parking area. If this is incorrect, we will attempt to contact the landowners and see if they are ok with the trail or change the directions in the next edition of the guidebook. Thanks again.

Jason Apr 11, 2009
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Actually, looking at the Jeffco Open Space Map as per Brian M's comment in Aug. 2008, ANY approach that starts at the CO 58 onramp crosses private land. Will try his approach next time.
Also, the routes listed below The Mummy, currently starting with Natural Born Topropers, are on a separate buttress about 250 yards to the east, reachable by trail. Toprope anchors are a bit more challenging to find on the left side of the wall. Jan 16, 2009
Doug,

You are correct, the line drawn in the photo in the new guidebook is a bit off from the actual trail. However, the trail currently used crosses back and forth over private property several times. As such, the guidebook is drawn in so as to stay off any private property and potential access issues. Please feel free to let me know of any other comments you have about the book.

Jason Jan 11, 2009
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
The approach trail as pictured in the new guidebook, is not accurate. There is a route here, but is much steeper and made of game trails. The trail as described in the body of the report above is a good sustainable trail. Have not tried the approach as described above in the comments section. Jan 8, 2009
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
I've always parked at the Ridge road parking area. It's the "Future Parking Area" on this conceptual map. You hike on an abandoned road all the way to the quarry. I suppose it's a little farther, but probably doesn't take that much more time and there's no question that it's on JCOS land the whole way.
jeffco.us/jeffco/openspace_… Aug 28, 2008
Great shots, and you are dead on as far as the pictures/routes. Jul 17, 2008
Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
I just posted some pictures I took on my first recon visit to the Quarry Wall. I have listed the pictures according to the routes I take them to be based on information gleaned from this site. If I am mistaken in which pictures are in fact of which routes, I apologize. I'm brand new to the area and exploring my new climbing home. I will happily edit the captions if any of what I posted is incorrect. That said, sick cracks! Jul 16, 2008
The cat is finally out of the bag! Bitter sweet I suppose. Super fun spot. Definitely the place to go for some splitter action on the Front Range. Apr 14, 2008
There must have been a lot of pent up demand to comment on this "secret" crag. The day of the area's initial submission may still be young, yet an impressive 17 posts have proceded this one. Apr 14, 2008
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
Dougald, my understanding is that this area was off limits until about 1.5-2 yrs ago when the land was purchased by Open Space, from the mine/quarry owners. This is also word of mouth, but my information is that Jimmy Menendez spoke with Open Space about this and the purchase was confirmed. I believe C. Leubben knows of the official status.

What I do know is that at this time ~ 2 yrs ago, the barbed wire fence with no-trespassing signs was taken down (still visible under the power lines) and official open space parking areas were constructed as described in the write up and also up at the end of ridge road (alternative access). It certainly would be nice to know "for sure" what the status is. Apr 14, 2008
Dougald, that's a great question. My understanding is that the crag itself is JeffCo Open Space, but was unclear about how far down towards the road that land extended. I have been told that the School of Mines has geology classes along those lower rock bands and that it is public access left of the power lines. This is unverified and may be incorrect. Apr 14, 2008
Does anyone know the ownership of these crags and the land beneath them? It's my understanding that they were being kept quiet because they are on private land (an old quarry), even though all the surrounding land is open space. I hope the access is safe...the climbs are unique for this area. Apr 14, 2008
The cat is out of the bag! Be sure to stay off the private land by the houses where the barbed wire fences are. Apr 14, 2008
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
The flared thin hands crack on the smaller right buttress with anchors at the top is "the short tour", the line on the far L. of this butress, fingers to fists up high is Marry Me Becky ~5.10, Menendez and Gallagher respectively. All these route were done years ago.

I concur with Darren, Bone Crusher is the standout route at the crag and one of the best splitters "around". Apr 14, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Josh. Excellent that someone finally posted these hidden gems! Now that the cat is out of the bag, I think Bone Crusher is one of the best crack routes near Golden. Who would have thought that IC training could be so close to home! Thanks for posting them. Are you going to post the warm ups that are on the right? One is 5.9 hands/thin hands bit flared. The other one has a fist section through a tight corner. I don't remember what Jimmy called those. Apr 14, 2008

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