Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Josh Gross, Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 1,453 total · 12/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This has a funky start, it is best to stick clip first bolt. Thuggy stemming leads to a slab crux, followed by a neat arete section and thin move to the anchor.

Location

This is the East-facing wall on pillar in the center of the Quarry Wall.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.11+
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.11+
A large undercling below the second bolt came off today and hit my belayer in the chest. Probably did not change the grade, but beware loose rock on this pitch. Apr 10, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
A friend of mine tried to put up the chimney to the right of this route maybe a year or two ago, he went back last weekend and was thinking about finishing it up but could no longer find it.... He's proposed that the pillar is no longer there. Thought I would put it out there for verification. Jun 4, 2012
Everything is still there, including the chimney. Dec 1, 2012
SteveZ
Denver, CO
  5.12b
SteveZ   Denver, CO
  5.12b
A lot of loose rock on this one. It's definitely still cleaning up, and I suspect it will get harder as more holds rip. I almost gave it a bomb, but the positioning at the top is sweet. Apr 5, 2014
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a/b
Very interesting reading the comments on this route. I have not climbed it since February 2009, but I am a bit surprised to hear that there is much loose rock. The top half of the route is on the softer rock, so it is understandable that things could break or crumble, especially if you stray from the line. The bottom seemed solid, but freeze-thaw action can loosen things up. I have seen a lot of holds break at the East Quarry. My advice is stay off routes at the quarries after heavy rains or snow. Moisture behind a flake or hold, followed by freezing & then thawing out can help to snap off many a hold that is aggressively pulled on. Jan 8, 2016
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
Nice climbing but still a lot of loose and flaky rock. Jan 28, 2018