Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Hank Caylor
Page Views: 6,866 total · 53/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This was named after the album by the amazing and legendary Tom Waits....

The leftmost of the three main lines, Frank's Wild Years climbs a crack just left of the prow to a pumpy rising hand traverse. This leads to a cramped rest in the corner, and then the crux -- a few campus moves on jugs. There is an unclippable fixed wire here that is designed to keep the rope out of the crack -- please do not remove it. Above this a no hands rest preceeds a final awkward lieback up slightly lower quality rock to a bolted anchor.

Protection

Double set of cams, wires, and a very small cam (blue Alien was almost too big) protects the crux well.

Photos

Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
First half fun and weird. bit loose getting to the anchors, the route could have ended at the ledge. But I won't complain going another 15 feet over the awkward bulge. Apr 14, 2008
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.11
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.11
My understanding was that the inception, conception, and FA of this route was 100% Mr. Hankey. Apr 14, 2008
Brett Brotherton
Arvada, CO
Brett Brotherton   Arvada, CO
The fixed stopper to keep the rope out of the crack is gone! I was able to reach down from the ledge and plug a red C3 in there to keep the rope out of the crack. Definitely need something in there otherwise that crack eats the rope. Mar 12, 2011
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Cool route. I used a lot of red Alien/purple Camalot size and two blue Alien-sized pieces. Right before the fixed cam at the crux a red C3 is bombproof (inches below that piece). Kinda strange that the route forces you back onto the right face after that chimney rest but it adds another 30 feet of splitter crack, so why not?!? Really fun. Apr 30, 2011
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
The bottom portion of this route is VERY good. Great, sustained finger locks. The top portion is also pretty fun but leaves a little to be desired because of the ledge. This is definitely an area classic, one of the best cracks @ the grade in the Front Range for sure. Sep 25, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11b
Tough warm-up. Awesome route though. Doubles up to 0.5 (including C3s or equivalent) is sufficient with stoppers and single #1 and #2. This is a pretty great route at the grade, and the name is great - awesome record/song. Nov 6, 2013
B. Smith
Denver, CO
  5.11b
B. Smith   Denver, CO
  5.11b
This route would be a great time to break out the off-set cams. Although they are not necessary, they would work well on both the vertical finger start and the traverse.

At the crux, you will be faced with a semi-stout bouldery move to the ledge. At this point, I was able to place a BD 0 (green C3) and #0.1 (red C3). They were right next to each other and made me feel a lot more secure.

Do this route! It can be safe, fun, and a little heady. Dec 14, 2016