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Routes in The Quarry Wall

Afternoon Delight V2 5+
Alto V2 5+
Ankle Wrecker V2 5+
Banquet T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Phallic, The V4 6B
Blubber V0 4
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bowels, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Comer Culo V2 5+
Crap Crags T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Depression T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Eastern Heart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephantiasis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Finger Wrecker V2 5+
Frank's Tame Years T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frank's Wild Years T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gnome, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Kleptocracy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Koolaid T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marry Me, Becky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moby Dick V6- 7A
Mummy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ode to the Lowball V4 6B
Offwidth Bulge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Night T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pocket Rocket V4 6B
Recession 2016 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Recession Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scotland 'Wales' V4 6B
Shark Jaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharkcicle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Tour, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Bullet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Something to Do V0 4
South ArĂȘte V0 4
Southwest Face V0 4
Stimulus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tough Love T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale, The V3 6A
Yearling V1 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Menendez, Crill, Caylor, Gallagher?
Page Views: 2,760 total, 26/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the "perfect" hand crack, 4th route from the right in the Quarry area. Throw in a #0.75 from the ground. Start up on the left, left hand cross over jam, get your feet into the crack, jam slippery flared hands. Mid-crack is probably the crux with a long reach to a mediocre jam. Cruise to the Fixe rap bolts.

Others have also commented that this route feels stiff for a 9 (given in the guidebook). Apparently some solo the route (not me). Personally, I thought it was hard for 5.9.

Location

This is the 5th route from the right.

Protection

Set of cams to a #2 Camalot with some extras in the fat fingers to hands sizes.
I agree that this is harder than SC or BF or MMB, as stated above. Most jams are flaring and, because the crack slants to the right, I had to have the correct hand in the correct jam, in order to make the long crux reach, or else.... And there was nothing for the feet except for twisting the toes painfully into the slanting crack. I burned through a few tries to find the correct sequence. Apr 14, 2013
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.10c
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.10c
This is harder than Marry Me Becky by at least a little bit. Long reaches to pretty good jams except at the crux. Get the next hand jam above the crux and it's all over. I onsighted P1 of Blind Faith while 3 goes on this one today and I haven't linked the crux perfectly.

Redpointed May 1. I could maybe see 10b though you better have crack skills to make it feel like that onsight. I think 10c is more reasonable. My partner today cruised my crux but struggled in the thin hands so big hands beware down low. Feb 28, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b
I have to agree with the other comments. This is a sandbag at 5.9. It is definitely harder than Super Crack or Blind Faith. The jams are perfect at some points but are flared and greasy in others. It is a worthy route, but don't go into it thinking it is 5.9. Dec 22, 2010
Shawn Mitchell
Broomfield
  5.10b
Shawn Mitchell   Broomfield
  5.10b
If this is 5.9, Blind Faith on the Bastille is 5.8. Sep 12, 2009
kevin fox
parker
 
kevin fox   parker
 
Pretty fun...brought the weed wacker for the vegetation mid-way. Sep 6, 2009