Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Menendez, Crill, Caylor, Gallagher?
Page Views: 3,019 total · 25/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


69 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is the "perfect" hand crack, 4th route from the right in the Quarry area. Throw in a #0.75 from the ground. Start up on the left, left hand cross over jam, get your feet into the crack, jam slippery flared hands. Mid-crack is probably the crux with a long reach to a mediocre jam. Cruise to the Fixe rap bolts.

Others have also commented that this route feels stiff for a 9 (given in the guidebook). Apparently some solo the route (not me). Personally, I thought it was hard for 5.9.

Location

This is the 5th route from the right.

Protection

Set of cams to a #2 Camalot with some extras in the fat fingers to hands sizes.

Photos

Kevin Fox
parker
 
Kevin Fox   parker
 
Pretty fun...brought the weed wacker for the vegetation mid-way. Sep 6, 2009
Shawn Mitchell
Broomfield
  5.10b
Shawn Mitchell   Broomfield
  5.10b
If this is 5.9, Blind Faith on the Bastille is 5.8. Sep 12, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b
I have to agree with the other comments. This is a sandbag at 5.9. It is definitely harder than Super Crack or Blind Faith. The jams are perfect at some points but are flared and greasy in others. It is a worthy route, but don't go into it thinking it is 5.9. Dec 22, 2010
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.10c
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.10c
This is harder than Marry Me Becky by at least a little bit. Long reaches to pretty good jams except at the crux. Get the next hand jam above the crux and it's all over. I onsighted P1 of Blind Faith while 3 goes on this one today and I haven't linked the crux perfectly.

Redpointed May 1. I could maybe see 10b though you better have crack skills to make it feel like that onsight. I think 10c is more reasonable. My partner today cruised my crux but struggled in the thin hands so big hands beware down low. Feb 28, 2011
I agree that this is harder than SC or BF or MMB, as stated above. Most jams are flaring and, because the crack slants to the right, I had to have the correct hand in the correct jam, in order to make the long crux reach, or else.... And there was nothing for the feet except for twisting the toes painfully into the slanting crack. I burned through a few tries to find the correct sequence. Apr 14, 2013
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
What a fun route! Felt a bit harder than Aid Crack at Cob Rock to me, but maybe I'm not used to the style here yet. Anyway, do this route! Nov 23, 2018