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Routes in The Quarry Wall

Afternoon Delight V2 5+
Alto V2 5+
Ankle Wrecker V2 5+
Banquet T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Phallic, The V4 6B
Blubber V0 4
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bowels, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Comer Culo V2 5+
Crap Crags T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Depression T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Eastern Heart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephantiasis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Finger Wrecker V2 5+
Frank's Tame Years T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frank's Wild Years T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gnome, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Kleptocracy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Koolaid T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marry Me, Becky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moby Dick V6- 7A
Mummy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ode to the Lowball V4 6B
Offwidth Bulge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Night T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pocket Rocket V4 6B
Recession 2016 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Recession Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scotland 'Wales' V4 6B
Shark Jaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharkcicle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Tour, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Bullet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Something to Do V0 4
South ArĂȘte V0 4
Southwest Face V0 4
Stimulus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tough Love T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale, The V3 6A
Yearling V1 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Josh Gross, Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 4,393 total, 41/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Stick clip first bolt, this is a very unique route, it has a cool arete section leads to jugs through a bulge followed by a thin move to reach upper roof. Next comes an Inspector Gadget crux (long move), finish this one off with a tweaky move to the anchor. Mark Rolofson's years of route development shine through this masterpiece.

Location

Kleptocracy is located right of "Bone Crusher".

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.13a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.13a/b
I haven't been on this route since March 2009, but the crux is still burned into my mind. Here's some beta for a tall person: above the overlap, left hand on the angling jug, right hand just above it on the sidepull. Tape your baby finger of your right hand at second joint to avoid getting a nasty cut. Right foot just above the overlap on a small vertical edge to push against. Left foot is below the overlap & the problem is where to put it. If I put it on a big foothold on the left, it pushes my body out from the wall, making the reach or dyno with my left hand to a jug on the diagonal break seem impossible. I put my left foot low & right to keep my body in against the wall for the reach. A shorter climber (like Josh Gross) will be able to get a tiny poor hold on the face with the left hand & then bring the left foot over the overlap. You will be in a frogman position. Then reach the jug. Feb 3, 2017
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
Anyone have beta they wouldn't mind sharing for "the move"? I'm totally stumped! The rest of the route is really cool, but the one move is such a show stopper for me. Nov 20, 2014
mlloyd
denver
  5.13b
mlloyd   denver
  5.13b
This route is hard and fun, it has interesting movement separated by technical climbing rarely found on Front Range 5.13 sport climbing, the end of the route is the only drawback, the rock is loose and exfoliating and dares you to pull on edges that will in fact send you flying. J-tree tradsters and Yosemite slabmasters will find this route easier than your Rifle crusher due to the complete lack of the crank and dangle. Dec 26, 2011
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a/b
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.13a/b
Great route. Felt like 12c vertical climbing to a huge V5 lunge and then some 11+ slab to the top on flaky rock. I am 5'8" and can barely stick the lunge. So if you are much shorter than me, this might not be the best route for you. Dec 13, 2011
blakeherrington
  5.13-
blakeherrington  
  5.13-
I never redpointed this one before moving away, so I guess my vote is invalid, but this route was a lot of fun to work on and features a really amazing dynamic crux move that I seldom stuck. It sure seemed hard as compared to other ".12d" routes in the area, but I don't have much power for moves like that. Regardless of the grade, it's a great pitch and seems pretty overlooked. Dec 6, 2011
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
Is this really harder than Bone Crusher? If so, good job. Feb 15, 2009