Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Joseph Crotty and Mike Cichon, Winter, 2008
Page Views: 2,875 total · 25/month
Shared By: Joseph Crotty on Jul 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This has mostly good hands and a move or two of .10a where it pinches down. Join Frank's Wild Years where it cuts right (i.e., .11a/b).

Location

Start 30' left of Frank's Wild Years. Climb the 5.10 hand crack in the right-facing corner, and join Frank's Wild Years.

Protection

SR with a few extra hand-sized pieces.

Photos

Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  5.11a
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  5.11a
This route really has some varied climbing and not *that* many good hand jams. Like most of the Quarry, the rock is flaring and a little odd. Gear is great though. Single rack to #3 with extra purple to gold Camalots sews it up. The only significant detractor is the last bit of climbing above the final crux on pretty crappy rock. A few slings are nice for the traverse section, and you can double up gear on the upper crux to make sure you stay off the ledge.

A fixed purple TCU sits at the "campus" crux. It's been there a while but seems solid. You can back it up if you like. May 1, 2011
butlerbt
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
butlerbt   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Another hidden gem at this off-the-beaten-path crag. Sep 25, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.10c
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.10c
A little crusty rock down low detracts from the overall quality of the route. A couple good jams and some interesting stemming down low lead to a no-hands rest before the "campus" crux which, in my opinion, is significantly easier following this corner versus the finger crack of Frank's Wild Years. With that in mind, a 5.10 leader should feel pretty comfortable on this. Single rack to 3" with a few small TCUs or C3s. Nov 3, 2016
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
This route was great! Felt wild enough for me, but I haven't gotten on Frank's Wild Years yet.

Gear beta! I got a blue Metolius (#1) just above the fixed purple cam (#0) with a biiig reach from the rest. My partner got some kind of small DMM offset in the slanting crack below that. Nov 23, 2018
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Killer route!.1 or 00 Mastercam does the trick. Extend or skip the fixed piece to avoid the rope sticking in the notch 5 days ago