Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,607 total · 23/month
Shared By: Joshua Merriam on Jul 22, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This wide crack bulges out just at the point where you cannot chimney inside it anymore. A few true offwidth moves will be needed to round the steep part and get back into the slot above. Short but fully valid.

Location

This is on the right side of the quarry, it is the 3rd crack from the right.

Protection

Probably only need #5 and #6.

Photos

Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  5.9+
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  5.9+
I climbed this today and it was a lot of fun, I got to do some stacks (a few cupped hands/fist stacks and a couple double cupped hand stacks). I found the top of the bulge the hardest as I was right side in and my knee kept jamming when I tried to pull it up to reset it. I was groveling with a good but deep jug which was hard to make upward progress off, using a chicken wing for the outside. I am not sure at what point exactly but I also used a bit of (squeeze and normal)chimneying, thrutching, arm bars and inverted arm bars, knee jambs, double knee jambs, hip jams, stacked calfs! Wow... I barely made the OS. Tough, it didn't help that I tunneled in and very strenuously placed a #4 deep and out of my way, then had to come back down and out then around and up.

I placed a #3 and a #4 and that's all, once at top I pulled up rope and looped it around the semi detatched tower like block and had my partner counter weight it as I cleaned the gear on rap, then pulled the rope cleanly once at the bottom.

Super fun! I'll be back to practice my stacks and OW technique.... Jan 24, 2010
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Tuesday Night offwidth crew?? This is a good candidate.... Nov 22, 2010
Sagar Gondalia
Golden
  5.10a
Sagar Gondalia   Golden
  5.10a
For those looking to improve their offwidth skills, this is an excellent trainer. Despite its short length, it offers opportunities for excellent armbars, chickenwings, butterflies, hand/fist stacks, and kneebars. 1 x #4 and 1 x #5 are enough to sew up the bulge proper, but for those lead averse, a top rope is easily setup from above. Despite the picture of "Josh" going left side in, I strongly recommend going right. It's significantly easier. May 15, 2014