Avg: 3 from 3 votes
Routes in The Quarry Wall
|Afternoon Delight V2 5+|
|Alto V2 5+|
|Ankle Wrecker V2 5+|
|Banquet T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Big Phallic, The V4 6B|
|Blubber V0 4|
|Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Bowels, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Comer Culo V2 5+|
|Crap Crags T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Depression T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Eastern Heart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Elephantiasis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Finger Wrecker V2 5+|
|Frank's Tame Years T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Frank's Wild Years T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Gnome, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R|
|Kleptocracy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Koolaid T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Marry Me, Becky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Moby Dick V6- 7A|
|Mummy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Ode to the Lowball V4 6B|
|Offwidth Bulge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|One Night T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Pocket Rocket V4 6B|
|Recession 2016 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Recession Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Scotland 'Wales' V4 6B|
|Shark Jaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sharkcicle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Short Tour, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Silver Bullet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Something to Do V0 4|
|South Arête V0 4|
|Southwest Face V0 4|
|Stimulus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Tough Love T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Warm Up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Whale, The V3 6A|
|Yearling V1 5|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||equipped: Taylor Roy and Justen Sjong 1/12, FA: Taylor Roy|
|Page Views:||1,890 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||Taylor Roy on Mar 2, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionOne Night is a very unique route that requires a diverse set of skills and the ability to relax and recover at awkward rest stances.
Undulating between less than vertical and slightly overhanging, the route basically breaks down to 5.11a crack climbing, to back-to-back V6, V7, V6 boulder problems, and then some 5.10 to a V5 dihedral. The beginning will test your crack skills and faith in trad gear. The first crux is all about slopers and body power. The second crux involves small edges and horrible smears. The final crux will test your body position and faith in friction.
Climb the first 25 feet of Frank's Wild Years, and traverse right around an arete using a nice hand rail. After clipping the first bolt, compress your way up the steep face using an undercling feature and a slopey arete until you can stand on the hand rail. Once you have recovered, crimp some small edges, paste your feet on nothing, do a hard move to a right hand gaston, and move right until you can stand on a set of small edges. With the end of the difficulties just feet away, get set up on a left-facing feature, stand up on two buttery ripples and make a committing move to the "campus rung", then work your feet up and toss for a huge jug. Mantle onto the shelf of Frank's Wild Years, climb up the easy crack, and finish on the difficult corner of Banquet.
This is such a finicky, yet brilliant route. It gets only three stars, because the rock quality leaves a bit to be desired.
LocationThis is on the left end of the Quarry Wall. Locate Frank's Wild Years, then find the bolts that start about 25 feet up and to the right.
ProtectionFrank's Wild Years requires gear from a blue TCU to a yellow Camalot. Bring a runner for the piece that protects the traverse around the arete.
The rest of the route is protected with bolts and a two bolt anchor.