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Routes in The Quarry Wall

Afternoon Delight V2 5+
Alto V2 5+
Ankle Wrecker V2 5+
Banquet T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Big Phallic, The V4 6B
Blubber V0 4
Bone Collector aka Bone Crusher T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bowels, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Comer Culo V2 5+
Crap Crags T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Depression T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Eastern Heart S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephantiasis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Finger Wrecker V2 5+
Frank's Tame Years T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Frank's Wild Years T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gnome, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Kleptocracy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Koolaid T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Marry Me, Becky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moby Dick V6- 7A
Mummy, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ode to the Lowball V4 6B
Offwidth Bulge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
One Night T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pocket Rocket V4 6B
Recession 2016 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Recession Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scotland 'Wales' V4 6B
Shark Jaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharkcicle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Tour, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silver Bullet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Something to Do V0 4
South ArĂȘte V0 4
Southwest Face V0 4
Stimulus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tough Love T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Warm Up Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whale, The V3 6A
Yearling V1 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: equipped: Taylor Roy and Justen Sjong 1/12, FA: Taylor Roy
Page Views: 1,890 total, 33/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Mar 2, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

One Night is a very unique route that requires a diverse set of skills and the ability to relax and recover at awkward rest stances.

Undulating between less than vertical and slightly overhanging, the route basically breaks down to 5.11a crack climbing, to back-to-back V6, V7, V6 boulder problems, and then some 5.10 to a V5 dihedral. The beginning will test your crack skills and faith in trad gear. The first crux is all about slopers and body power. The second crux involves small edges and horrible smears. The final crux will test your body position and faith in friction.

Climb the first 25 feet of Frank's Wild Years, and traverse right around an arete using a nice hand rail. After clipping the first bolt, compress your way up the steep face using an undercling feature and a slopey arete until you can stand on the hand rail. Once you have recovered, crimp some small edges, paste your feet on nothing, do a hard move to a right hand gaston, and move right until you can stand on a set of small edges. With the end of the difficulties just feet away, get set up on a left-facing feature, stand up on two buttery ripples and make a committing move to the "campus rung", then work your feet up and toss for a huge jug. Mantle onto the shelf of Frank's Wild Years, climb up the easy crack, and finish on the difficult corner of Banquet.

This is such a finicky, yet brilliant route. It gets only three stars, because the rock quality leaves a bit to be desired.

Location

This is on the left end of the Quarry Wall. Locate Frank's Wild Years, then find the bolts that start about 25 feet up and to the right.

Protection

Frank's Wild Years requires gear from a blue TCU to a yellow Camalot. Bring a runner for the piece that protects the traverse around the arete.

The rest of the route is protected with bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Nice work, Madeline! I am glad you liked it. Is that the second ascent? What do other people think about the grade? It's totally possible that I was wrong about the grade. Compared to the other 13s at The Quarry, One Night took waaaay more effort. So, that's how I arrived at the grade. Feb 16, 2017
Madaleine
Boulder, Colorado
  5.13a
Madaleine   Boulder, Colorado
  5.13a
I really enjoyed this route. Great addition, Taylor! There are 3 difficult sections with stances between them. I redpointed the route on my 3rd try of my first day on the it and think the grade seemed closer to 13a. The most difficult moves lie in technical ability, and once I learned them, I could repeat the moves with some certainty of success. Feb 15, 2017
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Thanks, Rob! Mar 7, 2013
Nice job, Taylor!!! Mar 3, 2013