Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Menendez, Crill, Caylor, Gallagher?
Page Views: 1,562 total · 13/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is the supposedly easiest crack system in this area as of late 2008. Find this loose, wide, double crack system in a slot. The rock is quite loose and flaky, shedding pounds of rock even well after its first ascent. Squirm into the fissure, stand on loose footholds, thrutch, arm bar, switch directions, and get established about 10 feet up. Silt can and will cover that left jug inside. Find easier climbing until you get to ~30 feet up. Here, there are some decidely loose and threatening blocks lightly embedded in the shifting silt. If wise, move left to finish as for the 9 route (The Short Tour) to the left up to a pair of Fixe rap bolts.

Note, getting to the anchors from above for a TR involves a belayed scramble down loose terrain.

Some may feel the rating a bit stiff (given in the guidebook), but apparently some solo the route (not me).

Addendum: the rating I listed comes from the guidebook. I would up the rating.

Location

Find this as the 4th crack system from the right in this Quarry area.

Protection

Cams up to a couple of old style #5 Camalot size or the largest Big Dudes are handy.

Photos

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Far harder than 5.8- as are the other supposedly 5.8 - 5.9 climbs in this area, or maybe I am weak and old. Jan 7, 2009
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
My friends and I usually joke, half-seriously, that any "-" rating added on to a rating 5.9 and below means that it's really 1 or 2 number grades harder. In other words, sandbag. Jan 7, 2009
Andrew Bradberry
Golden, CO
 
Andrew Bradberry   Golden, CO
 
Definitely a sandbag in my opinion. I'm not great at cracks or offwidth, but I got spanked on this one. I had to walk around and toprope this route to finish it. The downclimb to get to the anchors is very sketchy with all of the loose rock. Jan 27, 2010
James Beissel
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
James Beissel   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
If you aren't smart enough to avoid a route with a name like "The Bowels" (guilty), at least do yourself and your belayer a favor and traverse left into Short Tour at the chockstone instead of topping out into pile of loose rock that lies at the top of the chimney. Apr 26, 2010
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.9+
Mark Roth   Boulder
  5.9+
This almost felt harder than Offwidth Buldge to the right.... Maybe a foothold fell off? Lots of danger and suffering to be had on this one. Probably a BOMB, but also strangely classic. Nov 22, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9+
Harder than 5.8 for sure. Nov 23, 2010
RyanO
sunshine
  5.8+
RyanO   sunshine
  5.8+
May be obvious, but traverse left before the mini-roof at the top, earlier is better. Didn't feel TOO hard. Maybe 5.8+ compared to other routes in this area. You have to remember that the climbing here is just downright burly. If you don't come out covered in dirt from head to toe, you weren't trying hard enough ;) Sep 12, 2011
Sagar Gondalia
Golden
  5.8
Sagar Gondalia   Golden
  5.8
Easily / comfortably protected with a #1, 2, 3, and 4 BD. There is a lot of loose rock / gravel above the roof at the top. Traversing left to the bolts would be prudent for your belayer. Apr 6, 2014