Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Menendez, Crill, Caylor, Gallagher?
Page Views: 2,544 total · 14/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the supposedly easiest crack system in this area as of late 2008. Find this loose, wide, double crack system in a slot. The rock is quite loose and flaky, shedding pounds of rock even well after its first ascent. Squirm into the fissure, stand on loose footholds, thrutch, arm bar, switch directions, and get established about 10 feet up. Silt can and will cover that left jug inside. Find easier climbing until you get to ~30 feet up. Here, there are some decidely loose and threatening blocks lightly embedded in the shifting silt. If wise, move left to finish as for the 9 route (The Short Tour) to the left up to a pair of Fixe rap bolts.

Note, getting to the anchors from above for a TR involves a belayed scramble down loose terrain.

Some may feel the rating a bit stiff (given in the guidebook), but apparently some solo the route (not me).

Addendum: the rating I listed comes from the guidebook. I would up the rating.

Location Suggest change

Find this as the 4th crack system from the right in this Quarry area.

Protection Suggest change

Cams up to a couple of old style #5 Camalot size or the largest Big Dudes are handy.

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