Elevation: 6 ft
GPS: 40.822, -124.113 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 653,862 total · 3,799/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Aug 3, 2006
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The Redwood Coast encompasses a large geographic area of northwestern California, bounded by I-5 to the east, Highway 36 to the south, the Oregon border to the north, and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Climbing exists on numerous rock types, including sandstone (Promontory, Footsteps, High Bluffs), quartzite (Land Of The Lost), and granite (The Grotto, Trinity Alps).

However, limestone is the real draw of the Redwood Coast, and is the real deal. The Trinity Aretes, Marble Caves, Cecilville Bluffs, Castle Rock, Natural Bridge, and the Caverns are all excellent limestone sport climbing crags hiding in plain view in the wilds of northwestern California. Good limestone can be found year-round; whereas the Trinity Aretes are primarily a summer crag, the Marble Caves and Cecilville Bluffs are best fall through spring. Wherever you go, you are unlikely to see many other climbers, if any. The relative lack of traffic often adds a bit of adventure to the Redwood Coast climbing scene, but it is more than made up for in absence of crowds and quality of climbing.

If bouldering is more your speed, numerous blocs line the beaches from Arcata to Crescent City. Lost Rocks is the crown jewel, particularly in summer when tides are low and access is best. Ossagon, Patrick's Point, Houda Point, and Moonstone offer good bouldering as well.

Arcata/Eureka is the population hub of the Redwood Coast. Arcata is a college town, home to Humboldt State University, and has all of the usual amenities found around schools including a thriving music scene and a number of local breweries. The Bigfoot Country Climbing guide is the only guidebook to the area, and can be found at local Arcata/Eureka outdoor shops. Mountain Project is an excellent supplemental source for new routes and general beta.

Getting There

Getting to the Redwood Coast involves winding roads, no matter which way you are coming from. From the Bay Area or the Oregon Coast follow Highway 101 north or south. From the Northeast (Southern Oregon, Portland or other Northwest locales), follow I-5 exiting in Grant's Pass to Hwy 199 to 101 south. From the East (Tahoe, Sierra, Colorado, etc) find your way to Redding on the I-5 corridor. Take 299 until you hit 101.

746 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Redwood Coast

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
Blowhole
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Karen Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
Standard Route
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Plague of Flies
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 43
Humboldt Current
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 29
Cedar's Dihedral
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
The Slow Spring
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Bambi Slayer
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 24
Gold Rush
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
Gooseberry
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Visions Of Impalement
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Riptide
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
Great White
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Reality Check
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Paisano Direct
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Blowhole Promontory > Puff Boulder
 30
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Karen Crack Moonstone Beach > Karen Rock
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Standard Route Moonstone Beach > Karen Rock
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Plague of Flies Promontory > Exploding Energy Boulder
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Humboldt Current Promontory > Main Wall
 43
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cedar's Dihedral Trinity Arêtes > Shooting Gallery > Boardwalk
 29
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Slow Spring Promontory > Puff Boulder
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bambi Slayer Trinity Arêtes > Shooting Gallery > Upper Shooting Gallery
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Gold Rush Trinity Arêtes > Shooting Gallery > Upper Shooting Gallery
 24
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Gooseberry Trinity Arêtes > Visions Wall
 18
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Visions Of Impalement Trinity Arêtes > Visions Wall
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Riptide Promontory > Abyss Boulder
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Great White Promontory > Main Wall
 20
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Reality Check Promontory > Exploding Energy Boulder
 12
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Paisano Direct Trinity Arêtes > Paisano Buttress
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Redwood Coast »

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