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Areas in Castle Rock

North Face 2 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
West Face 4 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Description

Castle Rock is an approximately 150' slab of limestone with routes on the usually sunny west face and most recently, the more shady north face. There is a mix of slab, face, crack and arete climbing. Most routes are bolted, but some are mixed and now thanks to Tom, there are a few great gear routes. All routes have two bolt anchors. The rock quality varies from mostly bullet hard on the west face to slightly lower-quality on the north face. Most of the large stuff has been cleaned but the occasional loose stone can still be encountered. Chances are if you head to Castle Rock you'll have the place to yourself.
Watch for raptors, if they are there, climb somewhere else Details

Getting There

Directions to the crag:
(1) Take a right on Underwood Mountain Road (just east of Burnt Ranch) if coming from Arcata on Hwy 299. Set your odometer to zero.
(2) At 4.0 miles, take a right on 5N40 Rd.
(3) At 6.2 miles (from Hwy 299) you'll pass by the Trinity Aretes.
(4) At 9.5 miles, park on your right at a small turnout/old road, that is closed by a large berm.
(5) Hike down the road for about 5 minutes. The road ends at a large cul-de-sac. Just before reaching the cul-de-sac, look for a culvert on your right. Head straight up to the ridgeline and over, eventually skirting the left side of Castle Rock to the base. About 5 minutes from leaving road to the base.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Oedipus
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heart Of Darkness
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart Of Gold
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Hagakure
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Oedipus W Face
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Heart Of Darkness N Face
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Heart Of Gold N Face
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hagakure W Face
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock »

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Photos

Piper Lee
Santa Cruz, CA
Piper Lee   Santa Cruz, CA
This is a climber version of your typical cinderella story. Girl goes bouldering, girl carelessly stuff all her shit in her crash pad, girl loses one shoe (a miura size 37 1/2)- instead of just sitting around- I am actively trying to find my left shoe. If you have any leads, please email me --> piperdreamsincolor@gmail.com 3 hours ago
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
base of North Face is covered in Poison Oak. May 30, 2012

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