Marble Caves Rock Climbing

Marble Caves sits high on a ridgeline above the South Fork of the Trinity River. The routes range from 50' to 180' in height on blue, gold and white-streaked limestone of typically excellent quality. There are currently about 75 routes here, from 5.7-5.14, with many routes falling in the 5.10-5.12 range. 

All of the walls are accessed via the same point, except for the Bowling Ball, which is on a separate formation. The walls are numbered above as they would be encountered on the approach, although the routes are listed from left to right. Regardless of where you go, you will almost certainly have the place entirely to yourself.

The Caves face southwest, so best times to climb are typically fall to spring. Winter can be prime time, although the access road is sometimes closed by snow in years of heavy precipitation. If the forecast is for 40-65 degrees and sunny, you're good to go. Most of the walls go into the sun between 10-11 AM. Summer is extremely hot and not recommended. Watch out for poison oak regardless of season.

Free camping can be found anywhere, as it's all on U.S. Forest Service property, but the best spots are at the parking for the main area (there's a large, flat landing just before you gain the trail), or at Pete's Pasture, which is at the turnoff from the primary access road to the main area trailhead. The landing at the trailhead is highly convenient, as you can just leave from camp, but is pretty small. Pete's Pasture requires a short drive but is better for groups and gets a lot of sun on those cold winter mornings...

See the Redwood Burl guidebook more info, there are a handful of routes in the book that aren't on MP yet. Many routes are equipped with lower-off carabiners - these are not booty, please do not steal them!