|GPS:||40.394, -123.33 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Rick Shull on Oct 12, 2007|
|Admins:||Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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DescriptionMarble Caves sits high on a ridgeline above the South Fork of the Trinity River, and is truly one of the undiscovered gems of northern California. The walls range from 50' to 250' in height on blue, gold and white-streaked limestone of typically excellent quality. There are currently ~60 routes here, from 5.10-5.14, with tons of room for new development. All of the walls are accessed via the same point, except for the Bowling Ball, which is on a separate formation. Regardless of where you go, you will almost certainly have the place entirely to yourself.
The Caves face southwest, so best times to climb are typically fall to spring, although the crag does get snowed in some winters. Summer is extremely hot and not recommended. Watch out for poison oak regardless of season.
Free camping can be found anywhere, as it's all on U.S. Forest Service property, but the best spots are at the parking for the main area (there's a large, flat landing just before you gain the trail), or at Pete's Pasture, which is at the turnoff from the primary access road to the main area trailhead.
See "Bigfoot Country Climbing" for more info about the crag. The guide lists many routes drilled for Removable Bolts. Since these are no longer made, the majority of old "R.B." routes have been retro bolted with the permission of the first ascentionists.
Getting ThereIn Northern CA, take Hwy 36 from either Red Bluff inland, or near Fortuna from the coast.
Just east of the "no horse" town Forest Glen, near Hell Gate campground is Flume Gulch Road where Rattlesnake creek flows under Hwy 36.
Take Flume Gulch road 3 miles to the end of the pavement. For the Dream Wall, turn left onto 1S14D. Camp / park on an old logging landing about 1 mile down this road. The trail to the cliff starts at the back of the logging landing, in the trees. Follow this faint trail over the saddle to the right end of the Dream Wall. Walk right across the "catwalk" to the other walls of this sector.
The Bowling Ball is accessed by continuing along Flume Gulch Road past the junction with the road to the Dream Wall. Park at mile post 10. Hike down hill to the southwest from there 5 minutes to the crag. The crags are not visible from the parking area.
Classic Climbing Routes at Marble Caves
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season