Elevation: 4,512 ft
GPS: 40.832, -123.717 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 55,150 total · 1,196/month
Shared By: Adam Brown on Aug 25, 2017
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

A sport climbing and bouldering area along Titlow Hill Road, up on the ridge above the Redwood Creek Watershed.

This high elevation area has easy parking, a short approach, and is defined by numerous moderate sport climbs with closely spaced bolts, as well as many challenging bouldering routes. In addition, one can find a handful of sport routes in the 5.12 range and a handful of beginner/moderate traditional climbs.

Many of the climbs can be accessed from the top and can be top-roped from fixed anchors. The climber will find solid rock on most climbs.

The season for this area is Spring-Fall, as winter often brings heavy snow to the area, limiting road access.

The area is still under development so please be respectful of on-going projects.

Getting There

From the coast, it takes about an hour to get to Cold Springs and Split Rock. From Arcata, drive up Hwy 299 for 30 miles, or 15 miles up Hwy 299 from Willow Creek arriving at Berry Summit. From here go up Titlow Hill Road for 7.4 miles until you arrive at an indistinct road on the right. Some times this road is signed Rd 5N27, but the sign is often missing. This is the turn-off for Cold Springs, a US Forest Service area.

Drive down this road , it will wind around to the right and down a hill for a few hundred yards until you arrive a largish parking area. This area is marked by a large downed log, a fence around the actual spring, and a kind-of sort-of round-a-bout. Park on the down hill side and make sure you don’t block the road.

Split Rock Area:
There are a lot of unmarked trails in and around this area. To get to Split Rock itself, there is a trail on the northeast side of the round-a-bout, follow this trail northwards, more or less contouring slope, through the woods, cross a small meadow after a few hundred yards. At this point, the trail becomes more distinct as it continues north. The trail passes through some more small meadows and forest patches. The trail passes by the top of Split Rock after about 3-5 min of walking from parking lot. Right before you arrive to Split Rock, you go down a short steep slope and see a small year round spring on your uphill side. The rock is now just downhill on your left. The rock doesn’t look super distinct from the uphill side.

Roof Rock, Block Rock, and Crack Rock Area:
From parking area, walk downhill westward for ~350 meters until you see cliffs to your north. There is an indistinct trail that connects this area to the Split Rock area. To find this, just contour at more or less the same elevation to find the other area

78 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cold Springs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 4
Ring of fire
Boulder
V2 5+
 8
Endors Toi
Boulder
V4 6B
 9
Wise men walk with no Fear
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Dopethrone
Boulder
V6 7A
 3
Crimp of Fury (direct)
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Tree Enema
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Sweet Mammaries
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Around the Bulge
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Battle of the Bulge
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Why Go Left
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Frosted Flake
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Where the Green Fern Grows
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
The Corner
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
The Sidewalk
Sport, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Identity Crisis
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ring of fire Split Rock > Stoner Rock
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Endors Toi Split Rock > Psychedelic Rock
 8
V2 5+ Boulder
Wise men walk with no Fear Split Rock > Psychedelic Rock
 9
V4 6B Boulder
Dopethrone Split Rock > Stoner Rock
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Crimp of Fury (direct) Split Rock > Psychedelic Rock
 3
V6 7A Boulder
Tree Enema Split Rock > Dome
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Sweet Mammaries Split Rock > Dome
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Around the Bulge Split Rock > Dome
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Battle of the Bulge Split Rock > Dome
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Why Go Left Split Rock > Spire
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Frosted Flake Split Rock > Dome
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Where the Green Fern Grows Split Rock > Spire
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Corner Split Rock > Dome
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
The Sidewalk Split Rock > Dome
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
Identity Crisis Split Rock > Dome
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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