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Areas in Cold Springs

Outer Rocks 3 / 1 / 11 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Split Rock 0 / 33 / 14 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 55
Elevation: 4,512 ft
GPS: 40.832, -123.717 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,086 total · 802/month
Shared By: Adam Brown on Aug 25, 2017
Admins: Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description [Suggest Change]

A sport climbing and bouldering area along Titlow Hill Road, up on the ridge above the Redwood Creek Watershed.

This high elevation area has easy parking, a short approach, and is defined by numerous moderate sport climbs with closely spaced bolts, as well as many challenging bouldering routes. In addition, one can find a handful of sport routes in the 5.12 range and a handful of beginner/moderate traditional climbs.

Many of the climbs can be accessed from the top and can be top-roped from fixed anchors. The climber will find solid rock on most climbs.

The season for this area is Spring-Fall, as winter often brings heavy snow to the area, limiting road access.

The area is still under development so please be respectful of on-going projects.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

From the coast, it takes about an hour to get to Cold Springs and Split Rock. From Arcata, drive up Hwy 299 for 30 miles, or 15 miles up Hwy 299 from Willow Creek arriving at Berry Summit. From here go up Titlow Hill Road for 7.4 miles until you arrive at an indistinct road on the right. Some times this road is signed Rd 5N27, but the sign is often missing. This is the turn-off for Cold Springs, a US Forest Service area.

Drive down this road , it will wind around to the right and down a hill for a few hundred yards until you arrive a largish parking area. This area is marked by a large downed log, a fence around the actual spring, and a kind-of sort-of round-a-bout. Park on the down hill side and make sure you don’t block the road.

Split Rock Area:
There are a lot of unmarked trails in and around this area. To get to Split Rock itself, there is a trail on the northeast side of the round-a-bout, follow this trail northwards, more or less contouring slope, through the woods, cross a small meadow after a few hundred yards. At this point, the trail becomes more distinct as it continues north. The trail passes through some more small meadows and forest patches. The trail passes by the top of Split Rock after about 3-5 min of walking from parking lot. Right before you arrive to Split Rock, you go down a short steep slope and see a small year round spring on your uphill side. The rock is now just downhill on your left. The rock doesn’t look super distinct from the uphill side.

Roof Rock, Block Rock, and Crack Rock Area:
From parking area, walk downhill westward for ~350 meters until you see cliffs to your north. There is an indistinct trail that connects this area to the Split Rock area. To find this, just contour at more or less the same elevation to find the other area

74 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cold Springs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 3
Endors Toi
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Wise men walk with no Fear
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 6
Rose-colored Glasses
Sport, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
My First Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Tree Enema
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Sweet Mammaries
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Battle of the Bulge
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Frosted Flake
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Why Go Left
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Where the Green Fern Grows
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
The Corner
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
The Sidewalk
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
The Arete
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
The Dog's Nose
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Identity Crisis
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Endors Toi Split Rock > Psychedelic Rock
 3
V2 5+ Boulder
Wise men walk with no Fear Split Rock > Psychedelic Rock
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Rose-colored Glasses Split Rock > Dome
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, TR
My First Crack Outer Rocks > Crack Rock
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Tree Enema Split Rock > Dome
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Sweet Mammaries Split Rock > Dome
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Battle of the Bulge Split Rock > Dome
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Frosted Flake Split Rock > Dome
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Why Go Left Split Rock > Spire
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Where the Green Fern Grows Split Rock > Spire
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Corner Split Rock > Dome
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR
The Sidewalk Split Rock > Dome
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, TR
The Arete Split Rock > Dome
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Dog's Nose Split Rock > Spire
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Identity Crisis Split Rock > Dome
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cold Springs »

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Photos

I would recommend changing the name of the overarching area from Split Rock to Coldsprings for a few reasons. Split Rock is the name of the main rocks (Spire and Dome Rocks collectively), while the area listed here encompasses several other rocks separate from Split Rock. Coldsprings is the name listed on the sign at the entrance road to the entire vicinity.

Secondly, Split Rock is the name of a local coastal rock with a significant history. To the Yurok tribe, every coastal rock is sacred. 15-20 years ago, a few Yurok elders brought up the idea of petitioning to close all rocks from Moonstone on north. In a meeting, climbers offered not to touch the last un-climbed coastal rock: Split Rock (the original coastal one), and nowadays we pretty much don't even talk about it.

On the main Redwood Coast page, this shows up alongside coastal crags like Promontory, Footsteps, High Bluffs, etc... so I've had a few people ask me if "Split Rock is still closed to climbing." I think for logistical purposes of sorting this area for folks to find what's there, as well as limit the confusion with the highly sensitive coastal Split Rock that came before this one, changing the overarching area that shows up in the main Redwood Coast page to Coldsprings would be a good idea. Then listing Split Rock under that as a sub-area alongside the Outer Rocks would be good.


---Coldsprings---

+Split Rock
-Dome Rock
-Spire Rock
-Stoner Rock
-Psychedelic Rock
-Maths Rock

+Outer Rocks
-Crack Rock
-Block Rock
-Andrea Nicatina Boulder
-UFO Boulder
-Black Google Boulder Sep 6, 2017
Evan, I've requested that the Administrators make your suggested changes. I hope that folks who do know the area as Split Rock wont be too confused. Sep 12, 2017
Lurker
Verdi, NV
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
Hey Adam.

I'd suggest that you create a "Split Rock" and an "Outer Rocks" area within Cold Springs, then I can move the sub-areas to one or the other. That way, you still "own" the areas (because you created them), and you'll be able to edit them as you choose. If an admin creates them, you won't be able to edit them. Sep 12, 2017
Ok, that is a good idea. Let me take a crack at that and see if I can try and figure it out. Much Appreciated! Sep 12, 2017
Off the topic of the naming and organization, this place is is fun!! Best sunset in Humboldt. Sep 15, 2017
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
Beautiful weather up here today! Met a couple of hikers at the dome/spire, and they were pretty pissed about all the shiny bolts, especially on the north face of the spire. Probably be a good idea to paint the hangers to lower the visual impact for non-climbers, and remove some of the redundant anchors on top. Many of the routes could easily share anchors, such as the Arete and Sweet Mammaries on the north face of the dome, and all of the routes on each face of the spire could use a single anchor. Dec 18, 2017
Thanks Nick. I agree it would be a good idea to lower the visual impact. I'll work on coloring the hangers over time and getting them more camouflaged. Dec 19, 2017

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