All Locations > California > Northwest Calif… > Cold Springs > Split Rock

The Spire Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Spire

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aerial Dogfight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Cadence's Climb S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Dog's Bone, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Dog's Ear, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Dog's Nose, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Dogs back traverse V4 6B
	Flight of Fancy (AKA: The Dog's Eye) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Foxtrot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	King Swing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Return of the Fern, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Tango S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Walk the Plank S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Where the Green Fern Grows S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Whiskey, (Formerly Tree Squeeze) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Why Go Left S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Why Go Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,704 ft	1,434 m
GPS:	40.8347, -123.71783 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	11,498 total · 115/month
Shared By:	Adam Brown on Aug 25, 2017
Admins:	Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Description

This is a steep rock spire that is one of the features the area is named for, the other being the Dome.

All four sides of the Spire are unique. The North side is steep, roughly textured, and well featured. The West side is a tall overhanging smooth wall, with small features. The south side is the tallest wall, is very steep, and moderately featured. The East face is moderately angled, very smooth, and lightly featured.

There are numerous fixed anchors on top of the Spire.

Getting There

There are a lot of unmarked trails in and around this area. To get to Split Rock itself, there is a trail on the northeast side of the round-a-bout (see arrow in photo of parking lot), follow this trail northwards, more or less contouring slope, through the woods, cross a small meadow after a few hundred yards. At this point, the trail becomes more distinct as it continues north. The trail passes through some more small meadows and forest patches. The trail passes by the top of Split Rock after about 3-5 min of walking from parking lot. Right before you arrive to Split Rock, you go down a short steep slope and see a small year round spring on your uphill side. The rock is now just downhill on your left. The rock doesn’t look super distinct from the uphill side.

The Spire is located immediately adjacent to the Dome on its west side. It can be accessed from the main Split Rock Trail via two access trails, one on the North and one on the South of the Dome.

16 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	The Spire Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at The Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 13 ● Cadence's Climb Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 11 ● Foxtrot Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 10 ● Whiskey, (Formerly Tree Squeeze) Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 23 ● Why Go Left Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 14 ● Why Go Right Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 11 ● Walk the Plank Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 21 ● Where the Green Fern Grows Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 6 ● The Dog's Ear Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 14 ● The Return of the Fern Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 8 ● The Dog's Nose Sport